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Just came back to this thread, this is to late to help you but will hopefully help the next guy. When replaceing the floor pans don't drill the welds out, instead locate and mark all the welds from the inside and then use a grinder to remove just the one layer of sheet metal (thats the floor...

Or just take it to Auto Zone and let them test it.

I missed the low on fuel part! Dump in a few gallons and bleed the system. Also starting fluid ( or anything else like it) and glow plugs DO NOT MIX!!! The starting fluid will ignite as soon as it hits the hot glow plugs and considering it's being drawn into the cylinder with the air the intake...

Well, it needs 3 things to run, fuel air and heat, you know you had all three because it was running so what interrupted what? I don't see the engine suddenly getting so cold the fuel wouldn't light off so the heat portion is out. Air flow, I also doubt that the air flow got interrupted and...

Thanks for the update and I'm really glad you didn't try to save that frame. In years past and money tight I might've tried even knowing it should be replaced.

I'd like to add, keep the accelerator pedal to the floor while cranking, you're try to get all the air out and replaced with fuel and flooring it will speed things up.

LOL! My son needed one and I told him that you probably had one or two kicking around he just grumbled on about price and distance, I was even willing come down and pick it up just to meet up and look around your place, bet I could've found something needed too.

I know it doesn't sound 'right' but oil or brake fluid does cause brakes to lock up NOT slip, I've had that argument several times. If both wheels seem to be locking the same then I would try disconnecting the ride valve and try it set at different heights, IIRC you want it tied up to simulate...

Not on a Chevy truck but I have on a car, nice to work with and very well made, but if I were you I'd be looking in a junkyard and pull a civvie harness out. Find one with out power windows and such and grab the cab harness too.

Nice, but I think I'd still need step stool to get in.

Yup, clean all that crap out of there, it goes down behind the fender and the drain hole is there and plugged.

I used a couple of one piece rubber like mats from LMC, not sure if it's the same as what you are talking about. I used them in pick ups and they fit very well, a little funky at the front of the tranny hump. I did have to cut a hole for a transmission shifter, I don't remember about the...

Call or email them and ask, best way to go!

It seems odd and is uncomfortable changing it from the top but if you do it from the bottom you will NEVER do that again! What a PIA!

And a bit of grease on the wiper linkage helps too.

See that? It was that damn exhaust leak all this time!

I'm not sure how many amp the GP draw but my guess is more than 30. Try unplugging all GP and see what happens, if the fuse still blows then you know you have a dead short. I'm no electrical expert but I believe you would need some kind of slow-blow fuse (if even made for 12v) or a fusible link.

WOW, I like that diamond tuck, you do that yourself or buy pre-sown?

Find a doner truck in a junk yard or on craigslist and take what you need.

Also look under the driver side floor mat if you have them, a leaky master cylinder will sometimes leak inside the cab.