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YUP< one thing at a time!

I sold one cheap about a year ago, let it go for $5,000 but the bed supports were starting to go and the cab corners and rockers popping it also had about 100,000 miles on it but ran great. I have a civvie Blazer that I turned down $12500. for it. Price can be hard to set , hope you get what...

I'm thinking restriction in the fuel supply, I'd start with a new filter and think hard about that fuel sock in the tank. But before dropping the tank I'd run a line from the pick up side of the lift pump to a container of clean fresh fuel and see what happens, if it runs good and stays running...

Do you have a welder? If so , yes.

I kept the 4;56 gears and added a 700R4 within the first year and never looked back! I did have the tranny gone thru and added a corvette servo and a 0.5" TV (?) valve along with the hydraulic lock up on the converter and tires in the 31-32" range can 'comfortably' run 70MPH If you can stand the...

No, it hides the problem until the problem (lets say loose tie rod ends) are so bad that it not only becomes a safety issue but also causes your shimmy shock and other parts to wear out. Do it once and do it right.

Please don't get me started on the behind the counter morons! I knew they didn't know much and that was confirmed when one told me I could only go up one spark plug heat range at a time because the engine had to get used to it! yeah right.

Yes, that little button(?) is the release for the arm, there is a tool available for it but doubt you will find it anywhere other than a tool truck possibly not even there. Not to worry, place a plastic body filler spreader (or something similar) on the panel and use a flat tip screw driver to...

Did you ever change the lift pump?

Save the reinforcements from the underside of the old panels and install them on the newer ones, you will have to drill a few holes for the battery trays.

Don't over think this! If you are opening the bleeders and the calipers don't release, then it's got to be the calipers. There is no spring inside the calipers, the only thing that draws the piston back is the lack of pressure hyd. pushing it out (vacuum?)

Make sure you order the one for a 1984 NOT the model year your truck is! You want one of the top two pictured, the third pic is of a flywheel but yet they are calling it a flexplate , possible wrong image as they are quite a bit more $$

LOL, Why have a truck then?

Nike's and other china junk.

Sounds stupid, but are you sure the calipers are sticking? I haven't had a rotor turned in years and never measured runout but could that be the problem? Remember the piston only moves back a few thousands when pressure is released, if the rotor is rough or has essive runout then it's possible...

To me the fact that the lift pump DROPS pressure means it's failing. I'd start with a lift pump and plan on an IP too.

That doesn't always work. :(

That left side looks ahh somewhere between rough and gone! Up here in NY I could see that price for a good shell or a plow truck in that shape.

In my limited experience it seems that nobody has ever even seen that bearing let alone replaced it! Almost every truck I've ever torn down (1st time) that bearing was either dry as a bone or seized up or both.

OH YEAH, I forgot about the power steering pump, if the civvie does have A/C then the engine may have a remote PS reservoir mounted up near the intake manifold. Ifso save and use that! Much easier to fill then the one mounted down on the pump. If you don't use it, it makes a nice hydraulic...