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Take it to a frame shop, an old school one that knows what they are doing and not relying on a computer readout to tell them where to hook and how much to pull. That left frame horn is dumped down and that means it's 'kicked' up above the wheel and probably swayed over to the right. All easy fix...

Good info CUCVRUS, I've seen u-joint caps spot welded in place before but your pic is impressive!

For sure the problem is on the fuel side NOT the ignition side. I've never done it but I remember reading where a person can put the injector pump cover back on wrong and block the solenoid valve open thus it won't shut off. I don't think thats your problem, just tossing it out there.

Exactly, unless you pull the pan and clean it out what happens? I can tell you (YMMV) the sludge collects in one convenient place, unfortunately that place is the oil pick up screen and that blocks the oil from getting to the oil pump. I think you can guess what happens when said engine gets no oil.

Absolutely nothing, but being the nice guy I am I am willing to drive all the way there and tow it away just to help you out.

If the local shop can make up the U bolts then I'm sure they can help you with the springs themselves, they might even still have new old stock sitting on the shelf for a deal.

I think you just want to brag about your truck, that's ok I would too!

Most all of LMC is after market made by non-oem suppliers and will be "will fit" and will have possiblly been changed over the years to fit other years/models, hence the "will fit"

Aree you sure it's a 25 gal. tank? I thought they came 20,30 and maybe a 40 gal. I'd start by measuring the tank and go from that.

LOL Of course you have one!

Or he can just dump all the pins and springs out of the cyl. and any key that physically fits in the lock will turn the cylinder. I don't know why anyone would want that but I'm just the messenger.

If the engine is locked up forget it, it's not worth rebuilding as every moving part will have damage. As far as a step by step R&I of the engine, look in the TM (maybe?) or buy a 'how to' book at Auto Zone or online that covers 84 Chevy pick ups .

Adding clear to an existing color coat is going to present problems with adhesion, lifting ect. It will also still have the 'stickyness' that any other flat paint has making it hard to clean, if you go with a semi gloss then you have the shine and that isn't very OEM looking.

I don't remember what I paid for my GM dampener but it wasn't much more then the cheaper Dorman one and I rarely even consider Dorman products. Use the GM!

Heat, use a torch and burn it off. Just remove it from the truck first!

Totally unfamiliar with your set up so just tossing this out there, is the pump/reservoir mounted with rubber mounts? Ifso are any worn or bent? I know it's a long shot but $600 a pretty big chunk. Good luck.

Never had a Gear Vender OD but I do know they can only be used in 2 wheel drive because they mount after the TC. Any older truck junk yards down around you? If so look around in the old 1 and 2 ton trucks for a cast iron overdrive unit that mounts in FRONT of the SM465. It moves the tranny back...

I had a similar problem and was told by 2 local parts suppliers that they could not get that socket, so I took a regular 194 bulb and socket from an old side marker and cut the 'tabs' off the socket and trimmed it for a press fit. Worked great.

I'd post up a pic but it would be a waste, considering it's sitting on the floor of my storage container. Oh well, maybe some day.

No.