Search results

Definitely soak it for a couple days before firing the greenback pistol at the problem.

He might even be lucky and have one with all captive nuts (like whats on the edge above the fuel fill panel, where access to the backing nut isn't possible). I've had a number of sets come in that were almost entirely captive nuts, which is sooo nice.

If after you dye the oil and evaluate, if nothing jumps out, dye your fuel.

The float assembly in the tank that controls the aux fuel function has two floats, with high level and low level magnetic contacts. When the lowest float hits its determined level, it turns that circuit on. And when the high float is raised by new fuel, it opens the circuit, disengaging the aux...

What is the install scenario you are trying to work around?

Theoretically it will continue to run and run, because the float setting will not be satisfied to shut it down. You will need to understand fuel burn (GPH) compared to fuel quantity, to know when to check before empty.

This. If you had a casting flaw, like others said, it would be constant leak, and you would be visually able to find the origin. The paint would be removed in a manner pointing to the flaw.

Great minds and all :)

It does look like a fuel leak, which is why I asked. If it was an oil leak the staining would be heavier, and typically catching more airborne debris due to thicker viscosity

Well at the present time, the aluminum project is dead. Perhaps it may be revisited in the future, but it just wasn't meant to be at this time. I will say though that lady luck has shined a little light on my thoughts here. In the last month I have been able to secure the OEM units. They are...

I've been fortunate enough to unearth a small cache of New in Box/New Old Stock radiators for the MEP-802A and MEP-803A machines. These items are rare to find, and being that the newest TQG is 13 years old (and the oldest now 33 years old!)... a time will come with every machine will have to...

Are you 100% certain the return lines aren't seeping or leaking? You have had the top off and inspected? This area looks wet (red)... this is why I am asking about the lines again. Red looks like it has something on the surface of the metal. The blue, to me, looks like the end of the leak...

As other have said, yes no issue cross loading, as they have reinforced fork pockets from the factory for that very thing. The same reinforced pockets that are built into the skid crossways, are also able to be lifted against for lengthwise loading. I have 48" forks on my Kubota, and being that...

You should check the connection on the temp sender, to make sure its not loose or broken.

@Ray70 makes exactly what you are looking for, as well as replacement bases for the fuel filter canisters.

You may have a very small leak at the rear main seal, or a gasket. Remember the cooling system in these machines pulls from the generator head side, and exits above the radiator. If you have a very small seep leak, chances are it will be drawn towards the radiator with the air movement. I think...

This engine has been used in a lot of different equipment over the years, and they do build in differing oil drain points to accomodate. In fact, they also have a version of this engine with a case mounted mechanical fuel pump (like the old IDI Fords) thats camshaft driven. Oh, and they have...

There is a small drilled seep hole hidden on the unit that goes into the 2" NPT, no seperate pressure relief needed.

It's been a few years since I've had an 003 in here, but I'd just say measure the tray area and consult a battery chart, and buy the most battery you can convince yourself you need :) https://www.batteryequivalents.com/bci-battery-group-size-chart.html

The batteries are sized for the machine to start everywhere from Prudhoe Bay, AK to Zimbabwe... and anywhere in between that Uncle Sam wanted to play lawn darts. More battery power is never a bad thing.