Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
The cast iron manifold will probably crack when trying this. There is virtualy no way to heat up the bolts/ studs this way (due to geography) with out putting the manifold under the same heat and cast iron does not like cycling that hard.
I did the pb blaster heat soak cool spray cycle for 3 days the back two (closest to the block) are studs. took a while but eventualy came free don't panic if the stud comes out with the nut attached.
I removed the front stud chased the threads in the manifold and use a stainless alen bolt...
Check for bad ground connections. Weak ground conections cause heat, heat causes the breakers to trip then it cools down and the breaker resets then it starts to heat back up again then it trips again.....
same thing happened to mine on a recovery from Redstone to Seattle flashers would only...
I think that 140 is far to cold.
Too cold and you can get excessive blow by and wear due to the block heads etc. not getting the proper thermal expansion.
I am perfectly happy at 160-170 and staying there under a load. I also run a radiator block 99% of the time but I live in a colder...
One more was the truck 12v or 24v they made a 24volt fuel solenoid for military cummins engines.
If you are putting 12 volts to a 24 volt solenoid you may only be cracking it open and it is not opening fully.
Have you checked your injectors? NOT fuel going in to them but fuel coming out of them.
You say you crack the injector lines and get fuel but it does not run a 6BT uses realy fine injector nozzles that can get crapped up fairly easly.
I would be patient. Diesel truck oil has LOTS of soot in it and 40 gallons is a lot of oil.
Like others have said that is a fairly small filter system
I might try uping the cleaning interval and see if it is just as full. It might be filling up in the first 10 minutes of operation and...
Propane does not respond to adiabatic compression (it don't go boom when squeezed) This is why diesels use it as a power adder it does not preignite as the piston squeeses it but when the diesel ignites it touches off the propane.
Gas engines ignite the propane by the sparkplug so that is why...
I am more prone to believe that the cooland in the intake manifold is to regulate the charge in cold conditions there is no way it will cool it off.
On my turbo race car in sub 55* weather I need to put a heater on my intake pipe before it goes into the head because it is too cold and the...
I use Muratic acid 50/ 50 water to clean the tank it will remove the rust and any residual petrol products.
it is available at any hardware store for abotu 15 bucks a gallon
mix follow the directions but make it 50 50 ish
pour
cap
slosh
sit an hour or so
slosh
dump
rinse
check
repeat...
Howdy from Bremerton!
I got a 109 and a 105 doing the camper conversion and a HX35 turbo upgrade on mine.
I have done 2 long distance recoveries the first one in December 09 From Redsotne AL and 3 weeks ago from FT Riley KS drove the 109's home both times. If you need recovery help give me...
I'm trying to make it (it would be my first) but don't count on it. I am getting divorced, moving, planing to go to Speed week at Bonneville, and retiring from the Military all in the next few months, so there is not much time left over to work on the M109 till all that crap is done.
Probably true, but I wanted to make boost down real low like as soon as I crack the throttle and I had the HX 35 on the shelf already. I can always upgrade later if needed. If I was a true diehard I would have called Turbonetics and gave them my wishes but I don't need that much performance...
I drive at 2300 and up to 2500 for passing hills, RPM is the death of long stroke engines like diesels. I want mine to live AND make power. I will use gears/ tire size for overall speed.
I am digging this thread back up because I am 90% done with my HX35 turbo upgrade.
I have everything is done except for the welding of the wastgate mount 180* out from the stock location on the compresser housing (You re-clock the turbo 180* from stock to mount up)
I wanted to put a turbo...
I looked into going that route and What I was going to do is a plain jane M35 and then get the coms shelter that is designed to fit in the bed of the M35.
The interior would be smaller but not to bad. I was going to use a breakdown "A" frame style system to make it so I did not need a crane to...
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!