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@Browning1 If you aren't getting any fault lights when the contactor opens on its own under a light load, then I'd suspect an issue in the latching circuit that is supposed to keep the contactor closed. The diagram below shows the electrical path of the latching circuit. K20-9 gets 24 volts...

Be sure they send you the adapter plate. Sometime they forget to. See my order confirmation for the details

This.... Info from invoice for the gen head I purchased. It's a 4.2 KVA 3,600 RPM 120, 120/240 Gen Head with the adaptor plate for a J609B interface. It's what I use to convert 831's.

Northern Tool stopped selling them a number of years ago. Check out Mecc Alte for the gen head. They are a huge generator head manufacturer. I bought one from them about a year ago for a conversion.

Check with @CallMeColt here on the forum about the conversion and mechacical interface to the L48. He dud a YouTube video about one he converted. I've converted 831s with the L70 to conventional gen heads. It uses the J609B configuration. The L48 may be the same. I buy the gen heads direct...

Sounds like a bad AC Voltage Regulator. They fail a lot. I'd suggest testing the AC Voltage Regulator per the -24 TM. Post up your measurements for each step so we can help.

NO Normally Open

Price lowered. Need to move these.

Another way of narrowing it down without disconnecting any wires is to measure the AC Voltages going into the K8 Relay box. It's the input voltages that K8 uses to sense overload and short circuit faults. Here's how K8 works. It's the same for all 3 of it's load sense inputs. - An AC voltage...

You want to spray the Deoxit in ALL the little opening in the switches by EACH terminal. Here is a picture pointing out just two of the many openings on the switch's. The left arrow is pointing to one of the exposed switch contacts in the switch. The switch's are not sealed. After spraying them...

The two switches you need to use the Deoxit on are S6 and S8. You want to spray the Deoxit in ALL the little opening in the switches by EACH terminal. Here is a picture pointing out just two of the many openings on the switch's. The left arrow is pointing to one of the exposed switch contacts in...

Some droop shouldn't cause an overload. The MOV just helps the VRs Quad input circuit from shorting out wrecking the VR. That fuseholder in the pic is the fuse fir the convenience outlet. Some sets were made with GFCIs that didn't have the built in circuit breaker so that fuse was added to...

I believe breaking the bond in an 831 is accomplished by removing the small plate with the two screws in it on this board the output lugs pass through inside the 831

It looks like the 20 Gauge is M5086/2-20-9

The -24P TM will list the wire number used in the set.

Can't see the switch part number so I can't tell if it's the right switch. Could be its missing molded black jumpers to connect terminals 2 to 4 to 6 to 8. I'd suggest checking that S1 switching operation with the S1 Switch Schedule in the -24 TM.

Can you post a picture of S1 and circle or point to where terminal 7 is?

I suspect you were not on the CR1 leads based on your other voltage measurements. The labeling on the panel CR1 is mounted to can be confusing. CR1 is circled in RED

Check that diode CR1 has about 24 volts on each lead under the test conditions. Does it? If it does, then it appears to be an issue getting 24 volts from CR1 terminal 1 to the S10 Dead Crank switch terminal 2. The path from CR1 terminal 1 to S10-2 is... CR1 terminal 1 to J6-33 via wire 120B...

OK, same conditions, check voltages at both big terminals of MT4. It's the shunt mounted in the front right corner of the "floor" behind the gauge panel.