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I just shipped 3 Remotes out today.

Years ago I didn't disconnect the batteries in my 802 while testing a Remote Star system prototype. It fell and landed on the MT4 shunt. :oops: Fried the prototype and had to start all over. Lesson learned.

The Varistor is just a surge suppressor. It's normal to have 0 on one side and 24 volts on the other.

EZ outs always break and make a bigger issue. Left hand drill bit can snap off too. Have had both happen. Had to grind them out with a titanium bit on my Dremel. Sucked. If it were me, I'd weld a nut on it. Have used that method many times. The heat from welding helps break the bolt loose...

To see if it's a faulty Fault Indicator A2 you could disconnect the wire going to K9 terminal 6 and isolate it. Wire number 208A. That wire is the Reverse Power fault trigger from K9 to the Fault Monitor. If you disconnect the wire and the Reverse Power Fault still appears then the Fault...

I assume you are not going to be using the generator in parallel with another generator. I also assume you NEED this generator putting out power now due to no utility power. If so, you might try the following. Mark the present setting of the Load Sharing Adjust. Loosen the locknut on the Load...

When running and the is contactor OPEN is the light on AND you can't reset it on the Fault Indicator panel?

:beer:

P7 is PN 206150-1 All the gold plated 18 AWG sockets Contact size 16 female sockets that could go in it can be removed with that tool per the DigiKey website

I believe the extraction tool you need to get the pins out of P7 is:

What tools did you buy? Part numbers.

The first round of printed circuit boards came in yesterday for the Fuel Level Sensor, Fuel Float Switch assembly and A9 Aux Fuel box replacement system. Yesterday I built it up and then wired it to a K19 Low Fuel Relay, a MEP Aux Fuel pump, Fuel Level Sensor and "Fuel Level" meter on the bench...

Ugh.. Going to require digging into the wiring to check the path from pin 8 all the way to the high temp switch plug to find where power is getting to that path.

K15 is the starter cutout relay. That LED should be on when the generator is running indicating the starter is disabled. 26 volts at pin 8... Try this. Unplug the Fault Monitor. Start the engine. Leave the fault monitor plug disconnected. Measure the DC Voltage with respect to chassis ground...

K8 should have detected an overload and opened K1. I agree with DA it may have burned up due a loose connection.

Normally the LOP light is on before you engage the starter. The Fault Indicator will only display 1 Fault, not multiple ones. Electronically the first fault is senses is what it displays. The fault indicators can go bad. I've repaired a few of them out of 831's and 802, 803's, 804's. Every...

@Guyfang can you change the thread title for the OP? When Guy :beer: has a minute, I'm sure he'll update it for you.

Last post was updated so be sure to refresh

Sorry for the slow reply. Helping 4 people simultaneously with generator issues around the US this evening. The START voltage signal comes from S1-7 and goes to TB5 terminal 14. In total terminal 14 will have 4 wires on it. Two on the top screw and two on the bottom screw. The wire numbers...

This is where it gets ugly, trying to locate what's causing CB1 to trip during START.