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This may help. From the -10 TM

T- Good to hear you finally got it running! If the 3A fuse keeps blowing it usually indicates the VR has failed. Before jumping to that conclusion do the following. 1) Remove the 3A fuse 2) Disconnect wire 104C from terminal 6 of AC voltage regulator Set multimeter to DC volts and connect...

I searched and could not find an exact replacement. 305 is an oddball value. Since those resistors are the burden resistors for the CT's I suspect you could use a 300 ohm 3 W resistor. 300 instead of 305 would only change the circuit by about 1.5%. 300 ohm resistors are plentiful.

With the set running and the batteries are charged the battery/alternator voltage ought to be about 28.2 volts. With the set running is the charge meter in the RED or GREEN and about what charge or discharge amps is it reading? Remove FU1 and see if the battery charge meter reads the same as in...

The batteries going dead AND the alternator not charging may indicate failed diode(s) in the alternator. Have you tried adjusting the AC output voltage with the front panel adjuster? Does the output voltage change at all? When the set is running what AC voltage do you get at the outlet and...

I had to do the same fix to a DCS a couple of years ago. The window was horribly discolored and bubbled making viewing of the screen quite difficult. Now it's crystal clear.

Correct. The issue is if someone re-wires the gen head leads on a 1050 and up from 208 3 PH to 120/240 Single Phase it may need some mods to also keep the DCS happy.

Might have to fool the DCS by connecting its AC sense lines the right way to keep the stock DCS happy and the VR working correctly.

The VR is part of the DCS and not a separate item in the generator.

1N5406 600 volt 3 amp

Also the second attachment in the following link may be of some help. Annotated DC schematic

Here ---> MEP-803A TMs From the TM Section of this forum

Have you downloaded the -24 TM and checked the schematics. All the wiring info is there from S1 to the Fuel Pump.

I have the mistakes that I've identified on the 802,803 wiring noted on some marked up schematic PDF's. I recall finding an error in the 831 schematics a few years back. I didn't write it down, but I could probably find it again.

Correct "Not" Sorry for the typo

Yes, and the flashing circuit. If those tests pass the VR is getting everything it needs to operate but it has failed if there is low/no AC output. If one of those tests fail, then that related circuit is likely not allowing the VR to operate properly. edit: corrected now to not in last sentence.

Step h is not a VR test. The step verifies that the generator is properly flashing the gen head and that the static exciter has continuity from the VR to the static exciter. If this test fails, the issue is NOT the VR. It's a problem with the flashing circuit, wiring to the static exciter or...

Correct pair of procedures. The 01-21501-1 is the Libby VR The 01-21501-2 is the TRC VR

Does the Voltmeter and freq meter show good voltage and frequency while you have S1 in START and the engine running? If so use the AC VR test procedure called out in the -24 TM. Use the correct procedure since your generator may have a Libby or a TRC VR. Different procedures for the two of them.

The blue box is probably the Governor Controller. The VR is the rightmost box on the back wall. If it black it's a Technology Research Corp (TRC) VR. The other VR possibility is a Libby. It's dark green.