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it may be the pump... but my money is on valve train.... the popping from the intake is the tattle tale that either a valve or lifter is going bad. pop the valve covers and take a look... these engines will swallow valves if it breaks one

if you are just going into the top of the pump you should not have much trouble (fuel shut off solenoid area). pretty straight forward. but if you are planning to go into the bottom .i would stop right there... cause unless you have a test stand you are asking for touble.

i ran into a similar problem last year on my 1009. i replaced the swithc twice, the resistor, the blower. i was getting 12v to the blower and nothing. the wire from the fuse panel to the switch had fried.. was still sending volts but not enough current AMPS to make the blower spin. i replaced...

this is true the marks are just for static timing. most of the time it is dead on. some times when rebuilding the IP you can only get the internals with in 3 degrees of the timing mark on the pump

i have used three different methods to find bad injectors. IR temp prob on the exhaust to look for a cool cylinder. a stethoscope you can listen in on the injectors see which one is not like the others. you can also crack the line loose.. it only takes 1/4 turn loose for the pressure to bleed...

your injection pump can still be air locked. if it was working properly before it should still work... should. just keep trying to prime with front two injector lines cracked.... it can be a pain to get all the air out

I had this same problem when i had a head gasket go bad. the temp light never came on cause the engine coolant jacket in the heads filled with air from the cyinders, and over pressurised the radiator. the pressure then caused the radiator to push the coolant out into the overflow.. the only...

i would imagine that your heater core is plugged. start small and work up. check your coolant level... you could be air locked in the heater core . remove the cap and let idle for 15-20 mins. T-stats are cheap. check there before changin out the heater core to inspect it...

there are alot of factors going on when you start adding boost. this is an IDI engine, which means that the fuel is combusted in a combustion chamber in the cylinder head. as the gas expands it shoots out of the chamber... downward and across the piston face causing your power stroke. the...

:ditto:

yeah bad alt.. 12.3 that is battery voltage at the Alt

i bad return line would not make it hard to start... just a fire hazard. open up the TM's in the sticky and start on the trouble shooting tree. the TM will show you how to check the fuel system and the GP system. get to digging

replaced new or rebuilt... they only test for operation of the shut off on a rebuild and test fluid keeps it cool, doesn't turn in to a heat sink from the engine. it can still be at fault. i have had this with brand new out of the box pumps from stanadyne on the dyno.

odds are it is the fuel shut off solenoid in the injection pump. when they are old and weak they will tend to stick shut when hot. JP8 messing these up alot. you can replace it for about $25-50 from any stanadyne dealer. in the mean time just carry a bottle of water with you. when it has...

internally the are the same the only thing different is the pump settings

might be a lil high but these engines do produce alot of TQ at 1800 rpm

i do not have the numbers for my M1009 on a chassis dyno. but when i pulled it to refresh it it made 138 hp at the flywheel. after re-ring and new seals and injectors made 162 at the flywheel. :beer:these engines are to make about 150hp at 3600RPM

i would be curious to see where that parasitic draw was feeding that is draining your batteries

the only way to test the old one is two apply 12V+ to the terminal lug and rotate the throttle back and see if the plunger kicks out. all this is a an adjustable solenoid.. mine flaked out along time ago still trying to find a cheaper way to remedy the problem... guess my foot on the pedal...

I agree it could be a wide arrange of problems. read the manuals to see what it could be. I am a military instructor and use these daily for maintenance instruction. if you READ them you can find the answers. :deadhorse: