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if it is low on fluid it will not work correctly. i would doubt that the TQ converter would just be going bad i would check for line pressure the pump maybe going bad or weak.. you can find the steps to test in the 20 manual i believe

with out taking the pump and putting it on a test stand there is not much you can do to adjust the govener. you may be able to adjust the the throttle stop on the linkage

the one i drive as a daily drive m1009 came with one ... and the m1008 at my reset shop also has one.. it may have been a change in the later build lines

there are a few high quality rubber gaskets out there but.. they still leak.... it is in the design of the valve cover!!!.. i will take some pics and show how to seal a valve cover that will never leak... and it takes good sealent to make it a good job.

the park solenoid switch is what returns your wipers to the normal off position when you shut the switch. it works off the mechanical gear on the inside of the gear unit and when gets to a set postion shuts the curicut the washer curcit is to turn the washer pump on and the wiper on at the...

I have searched and looked in all the TM's and NMWR's that i have and i can not find anything. the military standard is if it is warped throw it out... once you machine it you have to get a thicker head gasket this falls under the keep it simple stupid equation. i will keep digging and see if...

if you feel that you have advanced it to far just bring it back to the static marks on the pump and the front cover and call it good. it will be hard to really see if you will have any more power or not from just chagine the pump... not like if you had it built and set for more power

the stock fuel filter base has two sets of wires that go to it.... on top there is a pink and a black i believe that goes to the fuel heater and there there is a 3 wire plug that goes to the back of the block... that is your water in fuel sensor/ pressure sensor I replaced the stock fuel...

use an air hammer to break it free

well it looks like you made it... glad we could help. your timing should be just fine if you have the static timing marks lined up or even a 1/16th advanced. it is good for a little more power on the top end..... 5-10 hp at WOT. lets us know how it drives and responds on the shake down runs.

you should be able to find a commercial truck filter base that will have a fuel heater built in it.

Rotella 15-40W is the way to go for sure.. you can get it anywhere ..... myself i run amsoil 15-40 in the summer and amsoil 5-40W in the winter

i guess it all comes down to what do you intend to use this truck for... daily driver ... work truck... ect.. there is just alot of options if you want to keep the orignal stance and look of the truck go with gearing... if you are wanting to use it off road then lift it, give it bigger...

yes it is the same wipper. check the terminal connector. when mine was acting up it was the connector. i had to pull the pins out and clean them all out and it worked fine after that.

i would just change out the gears and not the axles 3.43-3.73 ish range.. the 3.08 would mean you have to change out the carrier in the axle

from what you are saying it sounds more and more like a caliper issue.

i would agree to check into it... does it happen in the morning only? do you have lots of dew... dew (water)on the rotors in the mornings can have that effect

search craigslist for someone parting out 80's PU with 400 trans in it

check on the firewall there are some blue fuseable links that may have fried... also check your batteries you may have had one go bad. start small and work up from there

when i have to change out IP's on the dyno i take the lines off of the injectors and remove the lines with the pump and then put the lines on the new pump... it takes about 5 mins more time.. but will save you in the long run.. it is not cheap to cross thread the lines and fittings on those two...