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So I'm finally getting around to replacing my leaky valve cover gaskets, which are allowing oil to leak all over the exhaust manifolds and making alot of stinky smoke. It's going to be a real pain removing the intake manifold and injector lines, so I want to do any other maintainance while I'm...

Here are some useful GM part #'s: 12563904 Turbo Oil return tube/hose 10149659 Turbo oil ret. plate to engine 12562378 Turbo oil Supply hose As far as the return plate to the engine, it would be easy enough to make one, just use the stock piece as a template for 1/8" steel and weld an NPT...

I'm working on the same project, although I haven't installed the turbo oil lines yet, I do have the parts to look at. The supply line runs from the 1/4" pipe plug above where the oil cooler lines enter the block, to the turbo, then the return line runs down to a plate where the mechanical fuel...

I always get those parts from JCWhitney (in fact I've got a pair of rocker panels in the mail right now). But from those pics, you should save the $$$ and just make small patches out of 16ga galvanized. You don't need to go as complicated as replacing the whole floor/rocker. I always make the...

There's a vent hose that runs from the top of the tank, parallel to the filler neck, up to just inside the fill cap. It lets air out as diesel goes in the filler neck. I bet it's kinked.

Perhaps a slipping chain drive in the transfer case? Had a blazer once with that problem, made a **** of a racheting noise but only when under load in 4wd (going uphill, flooring it, etc)

So in answer to my original question, where's the best place to get a radiator, after much comparison shopping, Dstang is correct that RockAuto.com is the place to go. Napa wanted $440 plus tax, RockAuto has em for $260 plus $12 shipping. This is also the highest quality unit I could find, with...

Need a new radiator for my '85 M1009? Looks like it's leaking from the driver's side tank, but if I'm gonna take it out, might as well replace the whole thing. Anyone got a good deal?

I've got one of the HF towbars and it's always worked well behind my M1009, even towing a fullsize van loaded with engine blocks to the scrapyard. I agree with the previous post, the problem is stopping and cornering. With the van, it really wanted to jack-knife, and I had to come to an almost...

Be aware that you want to hook up to the FRONT battery positive terminal for 12V, the rear battery pos terminal is 24V.

Doghead is selling VRV's (the vacuum valve on the side of the injection pump that controls the shift points) for cheap. That's what caused the same symptoms in mine. PM him for availability

How did you move the CDR valve in front of the airfilter? Did you have to fabricate a new bracket and hoses? I have the stock CDR off the donor 6.5 turbo, I wonder if it will work on the 6.2? Do you have any pix of the completed engine? I'd like to see the CDR location and also curious what an...

You'll get better sound if you run the 12V supply (always on) directly from the front battery (with a fuse, of course). Connecting to the junction block or the fuse panel causes a buzz from the alternator and the blower motor.

Looks like whatcha got there is an M1031. I've never heard the term D30, but my local chevy dealer calls my M1009 blazer a D10. Anyway, my truck was already converted to 12V, but with your 24V system you'd want to run the radio to the front battery.

I've got one from my 1009, you can have it for the price of shipping. PM me if interested.

Thought about going to the local pick-apart, but it would have to be for the 6.2/TH400/NP208 drivetrain to be the right length and angle. That's the problem I'm having with the one from a different truck: I have to cut, bend both ends and add 3". Was hoping someone might have one for $20 or...

My 86 M1009 arrived missing the torque rod that goes from the lower pass. bellhousing bolt, to the two big bolts on the pass side of the transfer case. I've got one from a civilian gasser that I've been trying to make work, but it's no walk in the park. Anybody wanna sell me one that fits?

Hmmm, but the stock filter on the firewall is AFTER the stock (mechanical) fuel pump. If there's a water separator in there, it is not on the suction side of the pump. I was under the impression that a water separator will only work when it is on the suction side, not the pressure side, of the...

So I'm adding a Racor heated fuel filter/water separator. I've heard that for the water separator to work, it has to be on the "suction" side of the fuel pump, not having the fuel pushed through it. Problem is, I'm already running a Walbro FRB-22 electric fuel pump, mounted with a small...

If you're going to repack the wheel bearings you might as well grease the spindle bearings too. Also there are two seals behind the spindle, an inner and an outer (sometimes called an axle flange seal). These are cheap, might as well replace them, especially if you're driving in the mud. The...