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I don't recall ever seeing one and I've seen some very precisely restored M37s.

Are you talking about the little piece of armor at the cab corner?

Thanks Gunny. I already settled on the GL4 stuff, 85-90. Also decided against synthetic. Nice to know I made the right choices!!

I'd check and probably change the oil.

The date has been set for the 35th annual COMVEC Military Vehicle show as Saturday, June 9, 2012. Location will be the Chester Fairgrounds and we're hoping for a dry day for a change. More details to follow....

Welcome. I'm sure there are some folks down that way who can help.

You should be able to yank the engine without taking off the fenders but you might have to take off the hood or prop it way up. Radiator should probably come out, then pull the engine forward and up. Be very careful with the exhaust manifold and when you re-assemble, use the correct fasteners...

I've heard of rebuilt carbs with the floats set wrong. Does it run any better with a little choke applied? Mine has a slight hesitation when I start from a light but a little choke makes it go away.

The way I'm doing it varies. Some areas I am sanding down to bare metal (or smooth, even finish) with 80 grit, using dark grey Rustoleum Auto Primer and painting. If there is rust, I am using POR-15 on the metal first, then prime and paint. Areas that are even and just need top coat, I use a...

I know the feeling......sorry man! aua While you are in there, you might want to check the cooling tube behind the water pump. They are known for rotting out and then bad things can happen.

Do all caps have a fording position and if so, how would I tell? I have a new cap that is on to the second detent, but so far I haven't had any issues, so either that isn't the fording position or my vent lines are clear?

Just because air is getting into the tank doesn't mean gas is getting out. It likely is, but backflowing air can blow away sediment that returns and clogs when fuel flow is in the normal direction. Not saying that is the case, but it's a possibility. I think I'd put a 5 gal can of fresh gas...

Re: the Fuel pump, get a proper replacement. Places like Midwest Military or Vintage Power Wagons have OEM pumps (some NOS) that have been rebuilt with new rubber that will withstand the ethanol in the fuel. Get and use some marine fuel stabilizer for ethanol fuels, it will help. If after...

Yes, it is! That deal fell thru. I talked with Mike about it at Gilbert.

Contact Maddawg308 on this site. I think he still has his M37B1 for sale. He's nearby, too, in VA. It's very original as I recall, needs a little finishing work, but not a big project by any means. Mike is a great guy, too!

From yesterday before a local car show:

Really Nice Cav Trooper. Can't see where there is much more to do. (But now that I own one, I know that's not true!)

Bummer. I think I'd give Bob Stahl a call. He's in Wrentham, MA (should be near enough) and he's got many years experience with M37s (not that the folks here don't) and he's got tons of parts and knowledge. I was just up there today picking up some stuff I couldn't find anywhere else...

Fetched from the guy I bought it from.

Yep, I need to get the truck squared away first, but I'm planning on doing the armor over the winter and hopefully everything will come together for next spring.