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According to this:
III
the military didn't start using CARC paint until 1974.
Is it safe to assume, then, that any pre-74 vehicles are NOT painted in CARC?
Those C&C rims do look nice. The fronts have a 2" offset if I remember reading it correctly. That would make a 3" backspacing for a 10" wide rim. Or did they have a 2" backspacing from a 3" offset, I can't remember.
Maybe Mr. Tax Man will be nice to me this year and give me some of my money...
Man, you are luckier than me. I tell you if my license plate was three inches crooked I'd get pulled over. I have NEVER been able to talk my way out of a ticket.
I think you should try to get the SF 97 form even if it is a pain in the rear. That trailer has air-assisted hydraulic braking...
That's a 3000 lb trailer. If you ever haul a full load it would be good to have the proper paperwork for Johnny Law.
He's going to take one look at your 3000 lbs of gravel & your 1500 lb homemade trailer registration, hand you a nice fatty for you to sign, and tell you to have a nice day...
Those are the 16R20 Michelins. They are 53" tall.
XML & XZL both come in 46". As far as I know only the XZL comes in 53".
XML has a 49" as well.
Michelins - Weebly Site
I think you mean clamp it to the drag link. That's a neat setup you have. are you going to keep it in the original position? If so you will have to put some high angle double U-joints on the steering column to accommodate the steering box being behind the axle like in the M54.
As far as I...
No doubt. I don't think I've ever seen a Unimog go for less than $35-40K. And that's for 1960's models that are beat up. Any cheaper & they need a total restoration.
Deuce $3500 - 4000
A buddy of mine bought a Unimog a few years ago. I forgot what model. 65 grand! He took out a mortgage...
Don't forget about extending the driveshaft between the two axles. It's not a big deal for a driveline shop if you have a longer shaft already available. Shouldn't cost more than $75-100 or so for them to shorten a long shaft to the proper length & balance it.
It might be easier to find a...
Thanks for the info. How the HECK do you lift one of those giant tires up there if you have a flat? Or even a stock tire?
Nevermind ... I just read about the boom.
Chop the control arms & weld an extension into them. Put two extra-long leafs into the bottom of the leaf packs. That's the only way I've seen to do it (unless you know where to find extra-long control arms that would fit).
Notice the guy also chopped the bed to 9' to make room for a bigger...
Does the M105 have the same hub bolt pattern as the Deuce? Also, is there any way to make the pintle quiet over rough terrain (nylon wrap, duct tape, space-age sprays)? I've always been curious about that.
I wonder what backspacing is required to clear those tires on the front when turning w/o rubbing.
He chopped & welded the rear control arms. Since it's not spring steel I suppose that is okay. Must have added extra long leafs to the spring pack as well.
Can somebody explain the rods to me? Are these torque rods the same as the "dog bones" that are the same as the control arms that limit the rear axles with respect to each other?
Apparently, these really are true torque rods that recenter the axles when they shift laterally? In that case...
The only problems I see in using the 5 ton axles are 1-finding the complete assembly with springs and hangers, likewise front ... 2-the pumpkin is on the opposite drop as the transfer case ... & 3-they don't make ARB's for 5 ton pumpkins. But, I certainly would love to know if 5 ton control...