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Its not too hard for a valve to be leaking - a relay valve, quick release, hose fitting, spring pot, etc., and you not hear it, especially if the truck has to be running to build what air you have. Sometimes you have to plumb in another air compressor (with the truck off), and crawl around...

Do you have a couple of jumper wires in there? Is it back feeding through them?

Stuck Nice save, & that you had the trees. It takes about 8, two inch black spruce to winch to, & its best to have an axe to cut them out, when you winch up to them. I put a 24V cigarette lighter in the truck. The phone chargers will work on them.

My OTR truck ran the static truck pressure. Don't see why your would be any different.

They can run as smooth as a fine watch, Rusty, and still Slobber. It can happen anywhere, but especially in the cold. He's burning "some" WMO. What may be saved in burning WMO, is not worth the heartburn it causes elsewhere - an emergency is one thing, but that's it. They tend to run cold...

Leaking Slobber/unburned fuel/wet stacking. I've seen plenty of leaking joints, etc., from low RPM's, cold engine temperatures, & it starts from the combustion chambers. There may also be other issues.

Looks like slobber is a high percentage of the problem. WMO can be some of it too. What's the coolant temp - good thermostat? Is it really getting up to temp? Do you really work it?

A real dream car!

I have noticed that the Vendor "BeltFed" on the popular E Auction site, always has an assortment of Military type power cords & wire harnesses, if you can identify the plug ends. Good Luck

Its just a little over halfway up on the cross member, but to me - the higher the better. The U-bolts can be 5/16 or 3/8 round. Just figure the length & thread the ends. If you don't have a die, take a cap screw, cut the head off, and butt weld it to the round. Just use the air tank to bend...

Sounds like the only thing left out above, is the chain. 5/16 grade 70 is adequate with the bigger binders. Tying on a vehicle, you need at least four for the corners, with a binder on each. Depending on what it is, that maybe just a start and you might need 8 or 10. Straps are good too, but...

I can't tell form your map, but go down Hwy 37 , turning off the ALCAN just before Watson Lake. The road is your speed, and very few hills, saving about 150 miles before you get to Prince Georg, BC. There are long stretches on it, so be fueled up, every chance you get.

A vise is essential. The wooden clamping blocks is a great idea and works, along with the hose clamp. If you can't see the ends in the inspection hole, its not fixed! There are too many Prvt Piles out there, not to fix it yourself.

You could make one. Use a hack saw to cut the sides - then file out the center groove. A junk yard comes to mind too. McMaster/Carr would probably beat the auto parts joints. Or try eTrailer.

Once you loose that pin, a short length of nail (the appropriate size), will suffice.

The M101 has many options. I have added yet another can holder to the tongue, so that it handles two, fuel or water cans. Its great for camping. That is, except for dirt roads - things can get rather dusty.

Lets see - I once lost a turbo. The bushings failed, lost clearance & the vanes started contacting the housing. The danger is that it sheds vanes on the intake side and they get into the combustion cylinders. In the mean time with the lost clearance, on the combustion air side, It began...

I would use a soldering iron, not a torch.

I have several trailer with the aluminum tail light housing with the LED black-outs. Some with the plastic housing. Don't think its too uncommon.

If that is the connection, that is giving you problems, I'd cut it back, and re-solder it into the plug. Tat is very doable.