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I have an "air-up" chuck on my tractor. I add air from the shop compressor to pre-fill the tanks, so that I don't have to run a stinky diesel in the shop so long, before I can back it out. It depends on the truck's system, as to where you put it, but it needs to be handy to get to.

There is an inspection hole, right in front of the driver's seat. when you go there, clean every thing, top of MC & floor boards, etc., before you take the top off - to avoid contamination. If low, use DOT 5, brake fluid (there should be a sticker/tag, saying that, on the dash). Its different...

The advice here is tops (Posts 2 & 3), and they are not trying to sell anything. Trailer shops are biased, in that their main goal is to sell stuff, so they can stay in business. The A3 is considered to be a Dream trailer, in that you can't make it any better, only cobble it.

M101a3 That is a fine trailer, and I don't think there is anything that can be done to improve it. I was watching those sell. I was drooling all over my keyboard, but they were too far away.

There is a provision in the lower left hand, front corner, in the water jacket, for a freeze plug heater. That will start the engine here, so in your temperate climate, it will be adequate. In fact, I would be surprised, if it didn't have one already. Otherwise, you will have to cover the rad...

My 2 cents: wrong fuel. It can happen. Like diesel in the tank, but that will really make it stink. Saw a DC6 crash because somebody put JP4 in it. My Dad dumped 5 gallons of diesel in the tank - the fuel gauge didn't work in the M37, & it made it run about like your describing.

I don't know the answer to your switch question - I thought the Generator guy's would chime in. Your MEP is pretty old & the other is a later model. You can down load the TM's though, and research the answer from the part numbers.

If your cooling system is clean & functioning properly, the truck will run adequately & stay cool, regardless of the temperature of the thermostat setting. Even when your running a 205* thermostat!

Its right for SS. Welcome to the site. I think much of the generator, "MEP" stuff is under Auxillary Equipment. Maybe re-phrase you title - giving more of a hint as to what you need.

Yes, an the 1st. But theses trucks are too new for me - haven't moved up yet, but in the old days here, the M37's & M211's were fitted with a primer pump on the dash, to assist in cold starts, same as some small aircraft. They had a leather pump washer inside, which would dry out - then it...

Disconnect I just went through this! If you are worried about shut down procedure - and put the disconnect in the ground cable (which is a good option), then put the battery slave cable ground on the disconnect switch too. During Winter, I put a low charge on the batteries, several times to...

A weak spot in the Military Vehicle line is the comfort level.

You can't count on rubber mounts, to isolate the generator from the truck. It would need to be bonded to the generator, & then to ground.

I don't remember the shape of the gasket, & I don't know if there are any new style gaskets. But any 302 gasket fits. I wouldn't doubt that the 270 gasket fits too. Never cared much for that job - it always took about a 1/2 day.

Different, but similar: I just ran across this in my Deuce. Even when I had a cutoff switch in the 24V ground, I still had several amps of 12 V in the system. It drove me nuts, as I prefer to work with big hammers (I spent days on it)! It is that the 12 V was back feeding through the ground...

On tractors & trucks equipped with air brakes, the Service Line is always on the left. The Emergency Line on the right side of the vehicle. On "Civi" trailers, its the same. But on Military trailers, the Service Line is on the right, and the Emergency Line, is on the left. On your tractor...

I don't know the measurement, offhand. But usually an RV Trailer supply house has generic ones - 2x1/2" being common. They will be extra long, & meant to be cut to length by the end user. Be sure to use "neverseize" & I like to cut them pretty short after the nut, as they get abuse from rocks...

The metal tubing is around the hose from the engine coolant heater. Routed that high and as close as it is to the hot side of the turbo & exhaust manifold, it requires some protection.

Springs do become fatigued, and fail. It sounds like yours have been severely abused, or excessively used. You would do well, at this point to just change then out. In replacing them, there is tolerance, but you just want the pair to have the same arch. To check, just turn them over on the...

The proper line for that winch is called 6x19, which refers to the strands. It has a fibre core, and is abrasion resistant. As much as 220' will fit on that drum.