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Oh yeah I see that now.. I have a little too, you can angle the sheet metal a little to get it though. If you use a shorter piece than I did it's even easier. It would be neat to try that soap trick.. I'm sure you'd have to be careful not to get it on the rim though huh?

If you don't want to mess with the soap try this.. my way of painting the rim and not the tire.. use some sheet metal or possibly poster board.. position it between the rim and the tire..works great! You can get poster board in the dollar store.. cheap..

Welcome, I am sure you already have much experience but there seems to always be something to learn on these trucks and this site is where to learn it.. Again welcome..

If you are looking for electrical conversions 12v and such there are several threads here. I got two off road lights on the front and just got two 24v bulbs to replace the 12v. Anyway the thread here I like...

Sure looks like it could have came from GI Joe but the logo is still off.. Not sure where it's from but it's cool.. and I like different..

Looks great but I got you beat..I used 3 quarts of Rustolem Flat black in a paint sprayer at $30.. Can you still open the hatch in the floor with the liner all over it??

:popcorn:

Sorry, I think it looks cool.. should be in the next Transformers movie..:drool:

I'd also go for heat.. and PB Blaster. Soak first, try if no budge heat up with a plumbing torch or similar. Heat works wonders on rusty stuff. I like the dremel idea too for the slit.. Did that before!

Sounds good to me! :grin:

Looks Fantastic! Love the long wheelbase.. Really great work and I don't mind the chrome stacks..

Yeah registration stinks.. I went Commercial first because I didn't have the collector's insurance and then opted for Historical plates as the registration is much cheaper.. Not sure how much they "look" over by you if you do more than just drive it casually. With a cover on the back who's to...

OK, So I was driving the deuce today the most after the MC rebuild. I drove about 15 miles and then after parking noticed the brake pedal was allot higher than normal. But what's normal for me I had brake issues ever since I got the truck in Nov. So I now have very little "play" in the pedal...

Welcome, mine was once a Fire Truck as well.. This site is a wealth of info..

I just wanted to wrap up this thread. I rebuilt the MC and now I have the brake pedal pressure again. Another way I knew it was the MC was because I have a MICO parking brake up front. See pic. The line out of the MC goes up there first then back down to the Airpack. When I was at a stop...

I have not rebuilt them. I have not had any leaks at the hubs so I assume they are OK for now. I do however want to take the wheels off and inspect them as the weather gets warmer.. They could probably use a rebuild as well. Here is a pic of the MC, the little hole is the regular port and...

The first three pics are stock rims no? I have the same..but I like the custom rims that give them a slightly wider stance.. Either way looks great! Sorry just re-read your post you mentioned the stock rims..

OK, so I took another look at the MC the hole that I have next to the intake port does not go all the way through to the cylinder, my MC only has the one hole. That's contradictory to the diagram above but hey that's the facts. I took a pic and will upload tomorrow. Anyway, I filled the MC...

Gimpy, thanks for the link this TM has a good reference to the M/C TM9-1827c Ord. Maint. Wagner Lockheed Brakes which is on Jatonka's site. See the pic below. I pulled that out of the TM, I assume you are referring to the bypass port. I will have to take another look at mine, perhaps it is...

Gimpy, went looking through some brake lockup threads specifically this one: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/6933-brakes-locking-up-4.html Found a pic of what looks to be the big vent hole and the small vent hole. I believe I only have one, perhaps this is a M/C from another version of...