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I am not trying to offend anyone here. I value the input, experience and knowledge that others have that is why I ask questions. The basic question I asked was a simple one about connectivity OPTIONS. Further information as to why, what for and so on seem irrelevant. I am seeking options and...
You are missing the point. My cost is mostly in natural gas. I want to negate that by switching to an electric boiler that will also be powered by the genset and the genset will also be recovering the heat to heat the house as well. I spent $460 last month is gas. I plan on trying to mix 50%...
I think everyone is missing something. I already have a solar system and want to supplement my power when I switch more over to electric. I have a 43 panel system that is already grid tied (no batteries) with a title II power generating certificate. I am asking for the safest way to keep my bill...
I am not planning on running it all the time. I am planning on making a cogen plant out of it heating and electricity. I work with cogen systems and was going to build a small one for my house if cost effective. I was also going to use it as a standby generator.
I already have solar but am going to change some things around to use less gas and more electric. That is why I am considering this. They won't know any different where the power is coming from and I am not trying to use it to really overproduce for money.
I had an idea that may work. Get a good heavy shower cap that you can toss over the mushroom cap? Would be quick and easy as long as it didn't rip right apart. I have a heavy canvas bag that fits over mine. I may have to test them to make see if it shuts it down or atleast slows it down.
I searched but couldn't find this topic covered here. I am thinking about a project, but it seems to keep going way off course with the connectivity options. I wanted to grid tie the genset to put power back to the grid offsetting my usage. I know most gensets are not pure sine wave so it would...
Here is the part number for it. I got it from McMaster and Carr. https://www.mcmaster.com/#7768K64 I am not sure about the alternator change. So far mine is still working. Knock on Wood.
If it has been sitting for a while I would suggest pulling the pickup tube, cleaning the screen on the bottom of it and cleaning the inside of the tank while you are replacing the check valve. Mime was FULL of slime and algae when I got it and the check valve was broken on it also. It is clean...
Put lockout hubs up front if you do. Street driving will not be fun or safe if you don't. I have lockers in the front and rear of my 1 ton for when I was offroading all the time, but for street use I only lock the front passenger side. If I had an issue in bad weather and got hung up I would try...
Lockers and Posi units will allow the back to come around if you put down the pedal on slick roads if not careful but you will be moving forward. I run lockers or posi in all may vehicles open diffs suck. One tire in the mud and you will be a sit and spin. I have the detroit No-Spin in my 1 ton...
I test using the trans to stop my truck occasionally just to be prepared in the case of a brake failure and to know what to expect (stopping distance and so on). I never shut down the engine but my A3 does slowdown quite well just keep in mind where the rpm will go when going down to the lower...
Did you flush the heater core out? I had a bunch of "mud" in mine when I pulled it out to repair it so that could be your problem. Also did you bleed the air out of the heater core? There is an air bleeder on the top of it.
You could also try a Crane Hi-6 box. I have used them on several motors and helped them run much better and get better gas mileage. The hotter multiple sparks should help keep the plugs clean.
Keep in mind that if the axle shafts are still installed the gear is still moving and could still whine. You could also try adding some Lucas oil stabilizer to see if that helps.
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