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ok, forgive the dumb question... so far as I can tell, there's two lines. when facing the rear of the truck, one on the left and one on the right. The right one looks like what people in other threads are identifying as the speedometer gear/cable. So by process of elimination, I need to...

ok, this may sound like a dumb question but: In one of the tests they add used motor oil to the tank in a 200:1 ratio and measured only a 2 micron decrease in wear. Statistically negligable. However... what if they were to add it in greater quantities? say, 10:1 or 5:1 or even 1:1? I guess...

would it help to spray brake cleaner up into the line before flipping the lever or is that unnecessary?

If you think that's stressful, try dealing with a bank that won't make an "unusual charge exception" last more than 24 hours and getting Government Liquidation to charge the card within that 24 hour time frame on two tons of cartridge brass. Good luck with your next round in the ring.

ok, that makes sense. Thanks for the advice. Just turn it on, engage the lever, and watch the line until it stops blowing oil out, right? I love the deuce and a half. Lots of little problems that teach me something new every time.

One line appears to run from the air system "T" mounting under the dash. The other line appears to be a copper line running from a hole in the firewall. I read in another thread that if you have a problem with gear oil venting through the lever, you should clean the transfer case vent and then...

They never charged sales tax on any of mine. But then the seller doesn't pay the taxes on a vehicle in Texas. The person titling it in their name does and he pays the tax at the county tax office.

eh, guess I'll just take my chances.

Or skip the woods thing altogether and just make a Deuce-uburban. Make the cab extend all the way to rear of the frame. That'll give you room for a mini-bar and Corinthian leather couch. This will be your secret weapon when the wife pesters you for a family van.

You can get $600+ for a front and a rear axle pair, easily. I hope you have friends willing to help tear it apart, tho. If nothing else, a good looking deuce is worthwhile as a parts truck. If/when you finally do get a good runner, that big old pile of parts is going to save you alot of...

Hm. Ok, sounds like defective rod bolts from the other thread. I wonder if it would be feasible to go into a not-yet-grenaded engine and replace them with new, known quality rod bolts?

Ok, I went out and fired it up again and let the air pressure get over 60 PSI. Then I engaged the axle, shut off the engine and disengaged the axle. This time I watched that little vent hole behind the plate and sure enough oil sprayed out when I disengaged it. Only this time it was kinda...

To each his own. I'd love to do a crew cab 6x6, tho. Chinookpilot77, would you mind showing us some pictures of the interior? Give us an idea of how much space is there, what the seats are like, how much leg room is in the back, etc?

Is yours missing the label? I believe left is engaged and right is disengaged. It's got a light that comes on when it's engaged, too but I wouldn't bet on that working. You should hear it make a *pssh* sound when you disengage it.

If it's something for resale, the procedure is easy. I bid a certain percentage (minus tax, GL fee, and fuel to go get it) of what I think I can sell it for and then forget about it. Thou shalt not covet or thou shalt surely screw thyself over.

Wow, that's a pretty good idea. I'm going to try just this big one of CT's on the horizontal support, first. And yeah, I'd love to see pics of your setup.

I went out today and took the cover plate out to get at the transfer case. Then I removed the TC vent (it hissed a little pressure releif when I removed it even though I hadn't driven the truck in a week), sprayed it out really well with brake cleaner, then put a liberal amount of 3 in 1 oil...

ok, as far as a 12V dc supply goes, I was considering: Wiring one of the batteries to a terminal block and adding a battery equalizer to the mix to prevent overcharging or undercharging of either battery by the alternator. However, what I'm not sure of is how precise that 12V figure has to be...

PM sent. As far as dimming goes, I'd just wire a 5k ohm pot between my 12V source and the light strip, right? For location, maybe affixing it to one of the tube cross members of the cab top...

Wow, thanks. You've got my attention... Could you get a better close up of the directions, please? I was curious about the part that talked about dimming, just in case it's too bright. About how bright would you categorize it?