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Looking good!

Seriously...I spaced on it too....and missed a few good deals. Those Ft Gillem trucks with 11.00 radials would have looked nice parked at my shop. Oh well, at least I don't have to rationalize anything to my wife tonight! [thumbzup]

You'll need to replace the FDC with a take off unit. Been there, done that. Not a good feeling when that bolt snaps! That is why two wrenches are CRITICAL when adjusting the fuel delivery. If you don't have a 1/2" wrench thin enough, get out the grinder... As for removing the FDC, 4 bolts and...

There is a rumor going around that he is really Elvis!

I just wish I had taken some photos of it for this thread! It was some work to separate the outer skin, but well worth it! My Saturday was productive, just not with vehicles...I had to change out my pool pump! Here is a pic of the new pump working hard.

Oh yea, last photo for today....windshield installed! My buddy Brian that works for Safelite came by and reinstalled the window for me. Nothing like having a PRO save you time. Tomorrow I need to finish re-seaming and then paint. The Eastwood "Brushable" sealer is far from brushable in FL heat...

Photo update.

I dropped the truck off to have it welded today. I decided to leave this job to a pro. I should have it back Thursday 6/9. I plan to do a complete repaint inside and out this weekend. While I am at it I want to repaint the outside of my M1010 and my new M1031. It should be a productive weekend...

:shock::shock::shock::shock::shock::shock::shock::shock::shock::shock::shock: Are you NUTS? <please note I was limited to 10 images....I tried to use 24>

Check your drip rails! I used a small screwdriver to poke around and found a few more holes I need to fix. I'm thinking either some metal filler, epoxy, or body solder. I haven't decided which route I want to go. I sprayed some Eastwood "Internal Frame Coating" into the holes and larger opening...

I was not planning to cut up the cluster. Remote mount under the dash or a fabbed a-pillar mount would be used.

No way to tell remotely. Put a mechanical gauge on it to check, if pressure is ok then troubleshoot the circuit or leave it mechanical. One day I want to get around to replacing all the idiot lights with mechanical gauges. I hate idiot lights!!!

That's good info. Thanks. I'll need to do some research next time I go buy bio.

Something to think about for anyone with a similar issue, sometimes it is not the relay but the starter solenoid that sticks. My one and only run-on problem was a solenoid. I changed the relay and went to start the truck only to find it still wanted to keep cranking! It cost me some new fusible...

Believe it or not...I was just as surprised!

In the summer B100 is nice, but make sure you stick to B20 or less when the weather cools. Last year I started using about 80% bio in Late Feb/ Early March if I recall. A cold snap came through and I had 2 cucvs that would not run due to fuel gelling. Once the weather warmed up, it was fine but...

Every CUCV that comes my way has the conversion done. In fact, the new M1031 will be getting it sometime over the next day or two. [thumbzup]

Well, 205/208 use the same output seal on the CUCV. Seal part is 9449, timken part 9449 is direct replacement. The attached PDF explains the rebuild of the t-case. Should be a simple unbolt, clean, rtv, and rebolt for the rear housing. Don't hold me to that as I just glanced at the guide...

ugh, yea. my bad. Long day. I always mix those up and I was just working on my output seal on my M1031! New u joints and new output seal...

Rear output seal is a simple pull and replace job. It should take you more time to pull the drive shaft than it will to replace the seal.