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This is in several other threads but I've bought and sold over 200 002as and 003as. What I always did, is to take the fuel filter canisters off and fill them with lacquer thinner and carburetor cleaner, then make sure everything is clean and have fresh diesel in the tank. Start the pumps and...

Maybe the actual switch itself is bad. The older plastic ones are known to fail. Someone else had this same issue about a month ago, there was a thread on it.

IP gummed up and the plunger is not moving. Several post about this problem and solutions to fix it.

I've had similar symptoms with heavy rain water getting into the internals. I would have to let it dry out, then everything would run perfect. I would have inconsistent voltage drops or overages.

I use soap and a pressure washer. I've had some tanks so bad that the diesel gel into a tar. I had to toss the cans because I couldn't get the tar out with anything I used and I tried acids with no success. The 003a tanks are a pain because of the baffle but if you remove the aux fuel float, you...

My assumption would be that the hard line will not fray due to vibration being next to the housing and then there is no added weight on the water separator housing. The housing is aluminum and having a fuel hose hanging down, with consist vibration could cause problems

The hard lines go from the injector pumps to injectors, they have to handle 1300-1800psi. The soft hoses are return lines which only have 6-7psi. I hope I understand your question.

It will shut down before its completely empty, so you don't have to re-prime.

Don't even try a muffler, its a waste of time. I have the ASK on my personal 002a and I updated the soundproofing inside with dynamat for car audio systems. It made a noticeable difference. If you want quiet, go with a 802a. They are a lot quieter than the 002a.

Check out A1 relay panel in the control cubicle. Its located in the upper right and it helps control K5 fuel solenoid. Their are 2 diodes located behind A1 that can go bad. In TM-12 it tells you how to test it. The TM's refer to the fuel cutoff solenoid as a governor solenoid.

Exide from Tractor Supply have been the cheapest I've found. Walmart runs around $95 with a $15 core. 51 series work perfect for the hold downs on a 002a. Homedepot used to sell a 51 series for around $70 but they are junk. I tried them once.

Good job!!!!

Check your main ground for the battery which is located on the bell housing above the starter. Also check the main battery connections on the starter.

When it goes to shut down, does the fuel cutoff solenoid extract to shut the unit down or does it just start to die without the fuel cutoff solenoid moving. If the fuel cutoff solenoid is not shutting the unit down, then you have a fuel delivery problem. I once had a unit that would shut down...

More than likely just the injectors. Storeman has checked and rebuilt all of mine over the years. Over time the spring inside the injector gets weaker and it needs to be readjusted. But the only way to test them is to build a pop tester 99% of the units that couldn't hold 8kw was because of the...

Make sure it works before installing. Those are bad about being bad from the start. I know several members that have purchased them and have been dead on arrival.

Sure it didn't over heat? Will it restart right after it shuts down? If not, then it got to hot and it has to cool.

Suprman beat me to it. When Pclausen bought these, GL was really only selling 002a and 003a models. The 802a and 803a were rare to see and expensive. At that time, 802a's were going for $2,000 easy.

Its a 3 amp time delay fuse (KLDR-3). Failure usually caused by shutting the unit down while a load is connected or excessive starting.

You do realize your AM/VM switch, on the front panel is in the wrong position??? Your voltage gauge is not going to read correctly, if the s8 reconnection switch is set to 240 single phase as pictured.