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My driver's side wiper would stick to the right as well. I took it apart as much as possible (plastic junk!) and ended up deciding that the issue was in the valve that I couldn't disassemble... I shot some Marvel Mystery Oil n there and pushed some air through and it started working... Put...

Ok, I haven't been to GovLiquidation lately, but a random visit today has me just about sick... It seems they just offed a bunch of LVS MK17 rear units in GA. The posted prices, which I hope are wrong, are all less than $1000. Mostly a LOT less. Those trucks have a really nice...

Whoa, on first read, I thought you were saying that you could shake the pinion around... 1/4 turn or so in the driveshaft is "normal" for a 10 bolt chev axle. If there's play in that U-joint, you need to replace it before it grenades and takes out the yoke and driveshaft... There is pretty...

Squeak is a bad U-joint in the rear driveshaft. Squeaks either once or twice per revolution, only at low speeds. Blazer u-joints have a pretty good angle on them stock. Notice a high speed vibration to go along with it?? Usually the axle one fails first, but I'd replace both since you...

In my best Mr. T voice: "They're there to make fools like you ask questions!" :) Seriously, they may be jig holes for holding the panels in place while the welding or forming was done. That's my best guess. C

Re: RE: m1008 or m1028? Hehehe You can expect to pretty much go straight if you're running 4wd on slick surfaces. Meaning turns don't really work so well in 4wd anymore. Bad enough with the Detroit in back, but add a locker or LSD up front and when you throttle on, it just wants to plow...

Hey, I was just noticing that exact thing... Even on civy chevys of this vintage, it looks like the fuse in the box that's labeled "HTR" is also the one that feeds power to the exciter terminal on the alternator. (Alt 1, or 12V alt on a CUCV) Dim usually means it's not keeping up with...

Ok, my first M1008 is finally on the road!! I ended up doing some bodywork and painting it to kill off the rust and make it a bit more presentable... You can read about that here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=27606 It's pretty nice to drive, so long...

Fresh paint 1008, now for sale... Well, I've been driving it around some and it's a nice truck!! A little loud at 55mph, but tolerable. It really likes about 45-50. Really this is a ploy to move this post to the top again... Truck is now for sale for $3000. I have the title, and it...

Hey Jerry, nice to hear that your truck came out of storage in good shape, relatively speaking! So you are talking about frying the infamous under dash starter relay that's really a heater relay or something like that, right? I thought the sole purpose of that relay was to take a 24V input...

Hahahaha... I bought a starter off ebay for my 6.5L that was advertised as "Brand NEW STARTER". Mine came in the exact same box, marked NEW STARTER. At the time, I remember laughing at the fact that rather than "brand new starter" I should have read that the brand of starter was "NEW...

Holy side-tracked thread... I picked up my deuce with a stock dually dodge with a six speed cummins on a 20k rated gooseneck. It was no problemo. No sure about the ramifications of towing more than a vehicle is "rated" to tow, but a deuce on trailer will exceed most if not all "one ton"...

M1008 Painted (and now for sale!) Thanks for the compliment, Powerhousedeuce! I was beginning to think that I was just posting this to myself... So the weather was nice so I did a bit more cleanup and took some better pics... And added it to the classified section so it can hopefully pay...

So if you assume that fuel can be turned up to get max RPM out of the engine at full load (not likely w/o meltdown!) you can theoretically go 107 mph at 3600RPM!! More reasonable is that it'll pull 3000RPM, which equates to about 90mph. On 31's. Headwizard, M1009 axle ratio is 3.08...

Pulled it out this morning and took a few pics... Looks like I'm about done!! I didn't even see any thin spot with primer showing in my quick checkout... Wish the paint was a little thicker, as I can still see some of the filler and sanding marks. It's not perfect, but it's painted...

So I ended up starting the spraying a little after 6PM, with temps about 60 and dropping... Had to thin a little more than I wanted to to get it to spray nice and lay out. (conventional gun) Probably around 2:1 paint to Naptha, maybe a little thinner even. Tossed on a light first...

Ok, my plan to paint this morning was foiled by wind and rain about 8:30 AM... So I went to work and decided that the weather was good enough to paint this evening. After reading the paint can and various painting reports, I decided to get some hardner and some synthetic enamel reducer to...

Well, I didn't get out of work as early as I had hoped today. Didn't take any pictures, but the filler was harder to see this afternoon. I ran around with spot putty and filled all the pinholes and scratches that I could see as soon as I was home. Primer was really rough, so I decided to...

Notice that you can see the filler through the primer?? You kinda still can, but only because the texture is different. I can read the GL lettering on the front fender and box side too, even though I sanded it smooth with the D/A. I'm hoping that a little sanding tomorrow evening will...

Well, I see the pics get order switched between preview and submit. I'll try to keep that in mind... So day two (today) was more sanding, and sanding, and sanding, and discovering that I never welded in the small cab corner on the driver's side... So more filling and sanding, and filling...