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Giving this a bump. I can't find the parts despite a lot of searching. Is it ok to tow heavy without them? Am I going to crack the bellhousing?

That's funny. Didn't have quite that many zeros though.

Ayup, I just realized the unlabeled numbers going up the left side of the scale are mph, not rpm. That makes their program look better. Mine were shifting awful low... No lack of power even so. Went right up our steep hills in 4th.

Ahhh, I didn't say, but they have no good diesel tunes. Their diesel one had shift points up around 7k. Obviously a mistake, or misplaced file. They sent me some in my email, but my Android phone is useless for that. I'm stuck doing my own.

I normally don't disagree with people who know better than I do about most things. How ever, the whole purpose of the quick shift four is to allow just that. One primary, and 3 optional shift patterns. It's a good thing to, as the programs they supply, even those called diesel, have shifts...

My shift computer allows modifying shift points related to rpm. It needs tweaking, (not twerking, thank you spell check). What is a good rpm point for normal shifting for everyday and during towing? Im looking for a good, universal shift point for my trans that has constant full line pressure...

Ok, it is to long. Can I cut on the shaft, or is it a machine shop job? I'm guessing machine shop as the tube likely needs cutting.

I think I've found the cover and strut rods I was looking for.

Whew, saves me a lot of stress.

This is bolted to the 4l80e.

Does the np205 require an extra cross member for support? Mine is in with the original. Also, the original front drive shaft was reused, is that ok, as it was a tight fit length wise.

Anybody know what I need to fit my application? I just heard about the torque rods. 4l80e behind a 6.5, running a np205.

It occurred to me, I have the timing cover and gears for a sensor. Will that work? If so, how?

I went through 3 700r4s before going to a 4l80. If you go the 700r4 way, I have a TV cable and bracket.

I don't want to drill my new transmission. I don't have a cover, so I was thinking I could bolt a bracket in one of the holes.

Do I want two or three wire? Does signal strength matter?

Know of a hall switch that comes with a mounting bracket?

I have a Dakota box for my shifter. The box doesn't convert to the toothed signal though.

I like gauges... It's one that reads the number of teeth. Is that the Hall effect type? Is there a specific mount for it needed?

Is there one out there that will bolt to a 4l80e bell housing or something equally easy to generate a signal for a tach that reads number of teeth? I've got an an old marine tach I want to run. It's clamped on the column already.