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Just keep in mind how expensive converting a single circuit system to a dual circuit system will be. My best advice is to find a truck with this system in place already if you want to go that route. Keep the single circuit system maintained and you shouldn't really have any problems.

We could always buy doghead a plane ticket and send him to the offending posters house and force a resolution out of him/her. :cool:

Careful using acids in these galvanized tanks. Acids can eat the coating right off the metal.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?69241-Removing-rebuilding-reinstalling-Hydraulic-Head&highlight=hydraulic+head+o+ring This thread has some good information on how to remove the hydraulic head. Among other useful/interesting information.

You nailed it.

If you do one o ring you should do them all. Including the 2 under the hydraulic head. I sell the o rings but if you want to source them yourself the control rod is a -012 and in some pumps they like a -013. The ones under the hh I'll have to get back with you. I have a pile of them but...

Your getting fuel into your engine oil. A few things can cause this. Leaking fdc. Bypass it if you have one. Leaking hydraulic head and fuel control rod o rings. Also the booster pump seal located on the side of the injector pump can fail and allow fuel into the oil. The intake flame...

Truth be told your fix is probably better than oem. Nice job.

Harbor freight has a decent looking bore scope. Don't know how big the head is.

Put one of your old incandescent housings back on one side. Then have someone hit the brakes and compare the 2. If the incandescent light works properly and the led one doesn't then I hate to tell you but your led lights are bad. If the incandescent light is also dim then you will be...

It puts the oil on the skin.

I used 3ft of tanker hose. Worked perfectly.

Ok so yours has the external fan? If so I'm guessing you have a Leece-Neville unit. Though, which brand isn't really important. I was just making sure you didn't have a civilian unit or some other oddball. Ok as stated before start with fresh batteries and make sure your getting 24v from...

Not quite. The exciter wire detects voltage drop. Which then tells the alternater to produce power. The alternater should then put out around 28 volts to charge the batteries. I do agree you should start with fully charged batteries. If you still only have 24 volts at the hot wire of the...

You should be getting around 28 volts from the alt. You should also check and make sure your getting 24v to the exciter wire on the alternater. If it doesn't have voltage the alternater will not put out power. I'm confused as to how ploarizing the alternater fixed anything. I feel that more...

Hmm, that's better than I would have expected.

Latex paint won't hold up to exhaust heat. Neither will the Gillespie from rapco. By this I mean it may hold up for a while but eventually it will either peel off or the color will fade out. I know real carc turns a pinkish hue from the heat.

Brake fluid coming out of the slobber tube is a bad airpack.

While he might literally mean "build" a front end, since the mtvr front end is fiberglass and I doubt he has the mold I'm assuming he means install the parts on a deuce. That being said, I have been wrong before.

To me it just looks like a rounder mid 90 ' s international.