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Be aware that the motor startup on the 3 phase equipment may draw more than the gen set can put out. Electric motors have a huge draw when trying to start

https://inovahightech.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=20&product_id=50 Peter has done all the work for you. I've not done one on the 002/003 series, but I've installed several on the 802/803 series

Wasn't someone selling new or rebuild engines for these? Maybe Daybreak?

I'm local to you and have refurbished dozens of these if you need a hand

I have the 3100 series and very quickly found out to always leave a mower or backblade on the 3 point to help with weight, even with loaded tires. Even still I've had the back tires off the ground. It is not a good feeling!

'I've owned my Kubota for about 5 years. I now have no idea how I got along without it. Pallet forks have even been used for a cherry picker a time or two

I have about 10' of pipe on my exhaust to get it out of where it is. I used a flex pipe to make sure vibration didn't go through the whole thing. I used 45 degree fittings where I could instead of 90s and did a drip leg and heat wrap on the whole thing. It worked out good. To tight in there to...

Mice love to build nests right where the wires junction coming from the gen head. I'd pull the top off and inspect wiring and clean the switches with Deoxit. This has fixed several units with problems for me.

Guy might have nailed it. Looks like more than one is leaking

Could be oil coming out around the base of the pump

Those rubber lines coming from the fuel supply down to the injector are known to go bad. Are you sure they aren't leaking?

Hardware cloth or expanded metal mesh to cover the openings keeps everything out. I use hardware cloth in the air intakes and the expanded metal from the fan guards underneath to fill the holes there.

I used threaded flex on mine. I can't remember where I bought it though.

Sounds almost like the Tobyhanna mod on the 802/803 series for remote start. Any way the fault lights are exported out that harness as well so not active on the panel?

Green always signifies ground. That is universal in North America. The reason a lot of 240v wiring has no neutral is it isn't needed. The only reason to have the neutral is if the device requires 120v somewhere inside of it. All of your old 240v stoves and clothes dryers were only 3 wire...

If the gen set is tied into a panel as mine are they should be unbonded. The bond should only be in one place. If the gen set is set up as prime power in the middle of a field and not connected to a panel then then bonded is correct.

Actually this picture of the hookup looks wrong to me. I haven't investigated the wiring on these, but I'm guessing that green wire should go to ground and not neutral. I don't think there is anything in these that requires 120v to need a neutral, but I'm sure it needs a ground!

No problem at all on the hookup. I was just hoping for a TM in case one didn't work. Doesn't look like there is to much to them. Part numbers would help in the event I need something though

30 amp on each phase? The info I found online says a max draw of 9.6kw total. Hookup won't be a problem. I was hoping for a TM in case I have one with problems. The ones I got were both marked condition A so hoping they are good. Someone spraypainted drained on them. Hoping they didn't drain...

Was anyone able to come up with the TM for this?