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If you want to remove all that stuff you just need to get the lockup wiring down to the bare minimum. One switch to unlock it on the brake pedal. I hate to say it, but I think you just went over your head pulling stuff without knowing what you were doing. You will need to get this sorted out...

You can replace just the solenoids, they are located inside of the IP though. The IP is located top center of your motor. Just forward of the intake manifold (it has one fuel line going in and 8 fuel lines out).

That is a great price for a flexplate, but not what he is asking for.

If your comparing stock springs to aftermarket springs there is going to be a difference if you don't know how to measure along the spring. But I've pulled stock springs from all size trucks hundreds of times and never found a difference between 1/2, 3/4 or 1 ton. If you take the same length...

I have always used a pair of stand alone camper jacks for lifting pickup beds when I am by myself. They should not be hard to find. If you get 4 of the self standing tripod jacks you could put one at each corner and lift the body up safely.

This is correct. The ralley wheels have the same dimensions as the CUCV M1009 stock steel wheels, but obviously look different. If you painted them OD green or flat black they would probably look good on there. Otherwise it is best to look for a wheel off of an M1009 specifically if you want to...

Where did you get this info from? Dimensionally there is no difference between the front springs on a K10/K20/K30 in the 73-87/91 square body style with a solid front axle. Only difference is the # of leafs that make up the pack and weight capacity which doesn't affect you as you replace them...

If you look at the old stripped one it should have a # on it that is the # of teeth. Color is also dependent on teeth, so if the new gear is the same color it will be the same # of teeth.

The driveshaft out of the civi blazer will be too short, but you can reuse the driveshaft from the M1008 though without modification. Your biggest problem is going to be the durability of the stock 700R4.

It sounds like you already pulled one gear, the other gear is wrapped around the output shaft and requires removal of the output housing to get it off.

They are still available from Chevy dealers in limited supply, last one I bought was $9.

I have not seen anyone making brackets for the 6.2L with a york, there are some factory brackets out there in full size vans, but it will likely interfere with the extra alternator too. Electric pumps generally fall very short on CFM for air tools... Have you searched Pirate?

You will need to reset the timing after you swap out the pump. That will require some expensive equipment you probably can't afford, so I'd call around for a local shop quote. You just set the timing marks between the block and IP for base timing. That will be enough to drive it to the shop...

When you mount those valves they need the spring preloaded. You basically have to mount it past the point it normally mounts and rotate it against the spring to the correct location.

I've had a tcase with a bad shifter cause problems flat towing less than 50 miles... just make sure the tcase stay's in neutral on its own. Drive slow, take all corners VERY SLOW. 15 miles should be a very easy tow, it will take longer to hook/unhook the tow bar than to make the drive itself.

You forgot to add the new axle in there... that kit doesn't fit the M1009. If you swap out the rear axle for a 14 FF (good way of getting lower gears for bigger tires anyway), then it is cheap and easy to do. I have tons of pics of my rear 14FF rear disc conversion that cost me about $100 to do...

Remove old cable, install new cable... it is that simple. Nothing to take apart as you can reach the back of the speedo from under the dash. All you have to do is hold down the clip with one finger while pulling the cable off with the rest. New one pushes on. You can't take the dash apart...

There is an air diverter valve in the cab that sends the hot air down the side of the cab with the heat shut off. The coolant flows 100% through the heater core 100% of the time (unless you disconnect the hose).

Then I'm willing to bet it is not an air leak, but a bad fuel solenoid in the IP.

Turning up the fuel can be risky if you don't monitor the temps as you can melt down your pistons. Make sure you understand the risks and how to minimize problems before making that kind of mod. A pyro meter is good for watching exhaust temps if you start turning up the fuel.