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All lines in, letting it gravity bleed, will fully bleed tomorrow. Do Need to figure out something for the master cylinder cap, no source for the copper gasket I can find, will try to find an o-ring at some point

Just quick update got front frame line in, made up 3 of the short axle lines, reused the rock spring guards Gave them a coat of green, got a good number of New clamps, Also working on replacing the wire for the spare tire, got one more clamp on the rear frame line I can't reach

adjust them a little at a time, especially if they haven't been adjusted correctly in a while. what I did for mine, was adjust the bottoms, then went to the top, while rotating the drum, once it started to drag, I would back off the bottom a little bit, still while turning until the drag went...

And another near perfect one. Definitely needs a whole lot more prep then the steel Thanks for the input guys

Well took some good extra time deburring that seemed to do the trick, seems to take quite a bit more then the steel line I use.

Using FedHill, spent the extra $100 so I wouldn't cuss and moan over the thinner stuff; I bought a short section of the autozone stuff AGS? kinked the line twice. I am pleased with the Fedhill thickness, it bends well, I just can't get it to flare, the flare ends up lopsided, or out of round...

is there some sort of trick to flaring the copper line? can't get a decent flare, and now have a line that is probably too short to use, gave myself an extra inch, used 3", made 4 terrible flares. I can flare some 1/4 and 5/16 steel line I have perfectly fine, I just cant get the copper to do...

well, put brake lines back on the list, while most of them look clean, the front frame has the tiniest pinhole, what kind of rubbed away with my fingers, turned into a rust bubble, so I will go and do ALL the lines, going expensive with FedHill nickel/copper line. Kind of good that I caught it...

Registration is done, still need insurance, but maybe I will be driving it on the road next week. From another thread I started because to of the registration difficulty-

bled the brakes, got most of the old fluid out, gonna run it, then have a go at it again, I blew out the lines before refilling, but the fronts still seem to have a lot of old fluid, although it looks clean. regristaration may be a go, went to my dads shop, they called the DMV in concord...

Well registration is going to be harder, started a thread in Conversations. But I guess I need a Title for it being a tri-axle truck. I didn't know that, even though I thought I read through all the laws. To Be Continued....

Part number 7760416, Douglas connectors, the one with different size connectors, I have a want ad up, has the NSN. Need it for the horn to pass inspection.

Well its been a while, but received my final brake hose, so put that in, did up the remote reservoir, mounted it to the firewall. Will bleed brakes tomorrow after double checking all the fittings. Then I will move the truck outside, need the garage for my new acquisition, a 1985 GMC K10. I...

Beat down on mine, (opposite way you would think to pull it off) and it popped the cone washers out a little bit, enough to pry them out. I beat on them for a while the other way as well, but was still tight, took 2 seconds pounding the opposite way. so maybe a combination would work I do see...

Wait till primer gets hard. Sometimes it will crack. Sometimes you can pull the topcoat off in sheets because it didn't stick to the primer. How humid is it where you are?

Because 99% of the time any links to a for sale or auction becomes a dead link, usually within a few months. And yes because the way EBay works, even if it is listed as a buy now, it gets updated and then the seller has to re-list, which means new web address link

ok, I found I had no power to the light switch, and going off my wiring diagram, the lights pull power from 15, and is branched with the horns, number 25, but I was looking at the wires, I found had an extra set, kind of tucked behind the main harness as it comes out of the firewall-never...

Well...I am a complete dunce, don't have the circuit breaker for the lights, switch the plugs for horn, wa-la! Lights....so on the search for some Douglas circuit breakers

indicative of a faulty coil, what brand did you put in? the new aftermarket stuff sometimes lasts as long as you can get in and turn the key. kind of crappy, but it is what it is. now it could be fuel and air related, but I severely doubt it

I'll need to invest in a 24v test light, but I did pull the light switch, I am gonna try to run 12 volts through it, and see if I can get anything on the switch itself. I will either buy or make my own test light to test the vehicle side if the switch seems fine. whole harness was coded, and...