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Yup pretty much what I went through on no less than 2 trucks. And to some extent on an a3.

I did not remove the bottom adjusters since I had to adjust all 6 and get the truck on the road. Since I'm starting the tear down of my truck next week I think I'm going to pull my adjusters completely apart and see if I can figure out what exactly is going on.

I think the worst one I did was .03 on bottom and .015 on top. That was as close as I could get it without one end of the shoe dragging the drum. This was with new shoes.

I have dealt with this on several trucks. I hope you find an answer cause I just adjusted them the best I could and moved on.

I like my at3535. It's not super quiet but it really took the edge off. In fact it's not the exhaust that bothers me anymore. It's the drive train noise.

Yes. The seals are just an o ring that goes in behind the bearing. If I were you I would permanently disconnect the ctis. I'd even go as far as removing the wheel valves and just have regular valve stems. It will save you a lot of money and aggravation.

This is exactly why I had my wheels blasted and powder coated inside and out.

Why not just have stazworks cut you a set of wheels?

Now this is down right interesting. It appears aero exhaust is on their own again. At least judging by the website 59apache posted. However, Jones exhaust still has aero exhaust listed and to top it off it appears Jones exhaust has cloned the aero turbine. I wonder what's going on behind...

$300!? Good lord I found them for $130 and cheaper all day long. The manufacturer will sell you one direct if you email them. www.jonesexhaust.com That's how I got my at3535.

I wonder if the housing is the same for the 21si vs. 27si. Cause mine is a 27si. Don't know if that matters.

Gl-5 gear lube rated for hypoid gears. Also, is it a pinion leak or just a gasket somewhere?

M35a3's and m109a4's WILL shut down with a catastrophic loss of electrical power. They have a shut off solenoid. To your problem, I bet you have a short somewhere. Check anywhere a wire passes through or near the frame and firewall first. Then keep looking if you don't see anything.

I can only dream of having a machine like that. A cnc mill would be even better.

As far as drilling it out I admit I over thought it at first. Once it was done it turned out to be really easy. I started with a cheapo harbor freight step bit that had 7/8" as the largest step. Once I got a nice pilot hole started I switched to my 7/8" silver and demming bit. There is...

I had my alternator shop try and find me a double groove pulley and the closest thing they found me didn't even come close to lining up. The pulley is secured to the delco unit with a bolt and washer. Is your pulley damaged? Otherwise I don't see the need to replace it.

No! Do not use that pulley. That is for a 7 groove serpentine belt. Just drill the double groove pulley out to 7/8" that came off your old alternater. I did mine on a drill press.

Don't let the detail of the delco unit not charging at idle scare you away. A deuce uses almost zero power while running. A few lights and a fuel pump. Not exactly high demand. I have noticed zero problems with mine. Once you get used to watching the charging needle raise and fall it's no...

About 1300-1500 rpm begins full charge with a Delco 27si unit.

My buddy was going to do it to his a3 steering wheel to hide the cracking. Hasn't got around to it yet. If you look at Ak side folder stocks that have been wrapped that will give you a good idea of what it would look like.