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Does wix or Baldwin even make a 5 micron filter in the old cannister style filters? Most of them I see that fit the deuce are 10 micron. My spin on's are 6 micron. The cat filters I referenced are 3 micron nominal. With a way higher efficiency rating of anything else on the market except...

You could probably find a brake pedal from an a2. The non airforce trucks have shorter pedals. You can also swap the drivers seat with a hmmwv seat base and adjust it down. The A3 driver's seat is a bit taller than standard deuce box seats. Also an a3 driver's seat fits right on the hmmwv...

I thought tnj Murray had the liner kits? Try calling white owl truck parts also. George is a great guy to deal with.

It's obviously hard to tell without opening the engine up but I'm almost thinking it's a wrist pin. I'd drop the oil pan. Then you will be able to inspect the crank and rods. With that kind of noise I wouldn't think I'd be hard to tell if a bearing or wrist pin is bad.

In your video I see the exhaust is still unhooked from the turbo. That flex pipe flopping around could be causing some of that rattle. Or maybe I'm just being overly optimistic.

As valuable as deuces are becoming (relative to a few years ago) I'd say it's worth fixing. Especially if your not afraid to do a repower.

Right. I realize this. I'm over simplifying things.

Yes. Something very screwy is going on. Pulling the cable out should definitely kill the engine. Where's gimpy at?

True.

If I remember correctly from the threads I read, everyone who installed a stabilizer said it smoothed out potholes and the like on the road. Off road it really didn't do a whole lot. If you think about it there is a lot of rotating mass even with 9.00-20's. So a steering stabilizer even...

It's been done. I think one guy used a setup off of a jeep.

Hopefully at the very least this thing is salvageable. If you can get it cranked without going to wot that will be a good start.

Try pulling the hydraulic head. Then you can see if the fuel shut off block moves freely.

Yes you can run the engine with the cover off. A little oil might dribble out but you can shut the fuel off easily in a shtf scenario. Wait. Did you have the cable disconnected when you cranked the engine? Not saying you did. Just trying to clarify what you said.

Also, the way the shut off cable works is simple. The round disk inside the shut off cable that is attached to the kill cable pulls the fuel control rod towards the firewall to shut fuel down. Which makes me wonder if you had the cable pulled out when you put the cover back on the ip. That...

Your supposed to pull the cable out to kill the engine. The fuel control rod can manually be manipulated with the shut off cover off. Push the bottom of the lever towards the firewall to kill the engine. When the rod is in the full vertical position that is max fuel delivery.

If the turbo seals are bad on the intake side then the engine could have been feeding on its own engine oil causing the runaway. Even if the IP shut the fuel down.

By the looks of that turbo I would take it to a turbo shop. The whole turbo may or may not be bad.

There is definitely oil behind the impeller. Turbo seals are toast. I bet it looks the same way on the other side of the turbo.

All the way to the floor is low gear.