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I'll try to get to testing the transformers on Thursday when I get home. Are the T1 and T2 transformers the same between MEP-002a's and MEP-003a's in case I need to take Ray70 up on his offer?

I didn't see a procedure for testing them. I did a visual inspection of both and I couldn't find any disconnected little red wires in the transformers from the backs of the screw terminals.

Thank you for the offer, Ray. I did order a linear reactor today. If that doesn't work, I'll take you up on it.

Thank you to Triple Jim for shipping the regulator very quickly. I received it today and installed it. No luck. I'm not upset I bought a VR from him at all. It was in the future plans anyways. If I remove terminal 17 on this VR as well, voltage goes above 300 on the gauge. If I install...

Excellent! I wasn't expecting you to be done with it so soon.

Thanks, guys. I've placed an order for a new AC VR. I also placed an order for a NOS stator so I can fix my DC charging system. I'll let you know if the VR fixes things when it comes in. In the mean time, I'll check the T1 and T2 wires just to be sure.

I did not. I did not realize I should do that.

I started and ran several times today. No voltage and frequency drops off shortly after starting (and flashing). Over 300v if terminal 17 is off of the VR. Are we thinking bad VR now?

I know this is old. My MEP-003a has 24v DC at the red banded regulator wire with the set off. It also has the same voltage with the set on. The two leads coming from the stator read 22.52v AC between them with the set running. I pulled the blower wheel and cleaned the stator with brake...

The plot thickens. I went out and started it again. Frequency went right to 60 and remained. Voltage went over 300 on the gauge. As I walked down to the garage to get the Fluke, I heard the tone of the motor change a couple of times like it slightly loaded, and then went back to normal...

Me either

The wires were on the studs. They just didn't have anything holding them on tight.

The two with yellow ring terminals in the picture above.

I disconnected terminal 17 at the voltage regulator. I had zero volts AC at the convenience outlet or the output lugs. I closed it up to come inside to tell you guys this, assuming that meant my VR wasn't the issue. Then, I looked down and saw that I had forgotten to reconnect all of the...

Ok, thank you for that clarification. I'm waking up in 5 hours to go to work for 48 hours. I won't be home much on Sunday and I work again Monday. I'll try to find the time to do that check on Sunday.

When cranking (only), I have ~21v DC at S1 pin 27, TB4-10, A1 pins 7 and 8, and TB5-5. Prior to cranking, there is no voltage at those locations and after the generator is running, there is no longer voltage at those locations. As the motor is just starting to run, the voltage at those...

I'll figure out where TB5 is and test voltage at TB5-5 while starting. It should be easy enough to find at this point. Am I testing it as AC or DC voltage? I'm guessing AC. I'm thankful you guys can understand the wiring diagrams better than I can and know a lot more about these units...

I really don't know. I'm learning as we go here. I just want my generator working again and I'm following directions from more knowledgeable people.

"(5) Linear Reactor (Ll). Disconnect electrical connectors from control box. Use an ohmmeter to check resistance of each of the three windings in the reactor by checking resistance between terminals 1 and 2, 3 and 4, 5 and 6. Resistance for each winding must be 13.5 ohms plus or minus 1.35, if...

The manual said to disconnect the electrical connectors on the ac output box or something like that. I'm not home to reread the manual, but it made it sound like just unplug the 4 exterior connectors on the box. I tried to undo the 6 connections on the linear reactor but the wiring is so tight...