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I checked the resistor on the A4 board. It reads 55.8 ohms. I'd call that 56 ohms. I'm pretty sure that means the A4 checks out all around. I re-checked the linear reactor. Between terminals 3/4 and 5/6 I had 12.8 and 12.9 ohms, which is in spec of 13.5 ohms +/- 1.35 ohms. Between...

I'm going outside in a few minutes to check out that resistor that I forgot to check yesterday. I'm going to double check the linear reactor while I'm in there. And I fully do intend on getting his VR board at some point. I wouldn't be sad if I had to buy it now.

Just kicking things around in my head here, but with a positive test using the battery on TB3-5 and TB3-6, wouldn't that mean that the problem has to be in the control box (AC Voltage Regulator area) and not in the AC output box? Doesn't removing those two wires simply take the AC VR out of the...

I tested CR-1, CR-2, CR-3, CR-4, CR-5, CR-6. I completely missed testing the 56 ohm resistor. I can do that tomorrow. Where would I find a linear reactor?

Between A3 Terminal 1 and Terminal 2, I had 0.475v AC, which is what I was reading at the output lugs L1 and L2 in the very first post. This was with the generator running and there was no change whether I was flashing or letting it run without holding the start switch. Between + and 1 on the...

Guyfang, I'm going outside right after I post this to test that again. Thank you for clarifying. I am using both the -34 and -12 manuals and I'm also heavily using the schematic on top of the control box since mine is in good shape. I assume I should get 120v at Terminal 1 and 2 when using...

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I'm still working on figuring out what everything is. I've tested the CVT1 per the manual. I get readings of 2.0 ohms across H3/H4 and H5/H6. I suspect some error in the meter as those aren't very far off of the allowable variances. Is that a problem if it's accurate? When they go bad, are...

I clipped my Fluke to the + terminal of the transducer and the negative lead to the ground main ground lug at the output lugs. While starting, after it ran, and while holding S1 in the start position--all three conditions I had no AC voltage reading on the Fluke meter. I ran the test that I...

Starter interrupter switch is now working properly. When engine speed comes up, the push rod moves the interrupter switch so the starter doesn't engage while holding the start switch. No voltage at the output lugs, no voltage or frequency on the gauges, no voltage at the convenience outlet...

I found out how to adjust the starter interrupt switch in the -12 manual. I'll work on that tomorrow. What's next once I get that adjusted to work properly? With the set running and that switch unplugged, the field doesn't excite and hold voltage.

nothing

I'm having a heck of a time figuring out where everything is in the manuals. It's a whole different language to me at times. I only found mention of S7 one time in the -12 and -34 manuals and that was just mentioning that it would disengage the starter when the switch was turned to start while...

I am at work again today, so I'll be home Wednesday morning and finally able to look at this thing again. I downloaded the -12 and -34 manuals. Anything in particular I should start with diagnosing?

Sorry, I've been at work since about 0100 Friday morning. I'll be home around 0800 Sunday, but I won't be around most of the day and I work again on Monday. At the earliest, I won't be able to touch the generator again until Tuesday. If I get the chance at work tonight, I'll see about...

The frequency pegs at 65 Hz only when I'm holding the start switch while the interrupter is still plugged in (and starter spinning). It drops back to 55 Hz when released. The motor stays running just fine.

So evidence points towards a bad voltage regulator? Power is back on now, but I still need to fix this generator. What are people's thoughts on the Lakeland voltage regulator for about $200? https://www.lakeserv.net/mep/ac_regulator/index.html

With the motor running and that plug on the starter interrupter unplugged, there is no change to voltage and the starter noise isn't happening anymore. The Hz meter being pegged to the left means 55 Hz or less. The throttle is not set too fast if that's the case. I trust my Fluke meter more...

I currently have no electricity in the house and with the spotty Internet I can get from my cell phone (that I didn't charge last night...), I don't have the ability to download a manual or large files. I need electricity to get my heat up and running right now and I'll need water when the kids...

Well, I used to be in Union Bridge, but thanks to Martin Owe'Malley, I decided to move to lower taxes and more freedom in the great state of West Virginia. I'm in Berkeley Springs now.