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If your truck never needs the choke, and runs rich, pull the idle mixture screw. Mine was crammed in so tight that it ruined the carb body and the screw. That's one of several reasons I went ahead and swapped the motor.

My agent says I'm covered as long as I let them know about it "within a reasonable amount of time" after I get it. I like to have paperwork for that kind of stuff, though.

When you tap into the head, make sure you use a pipe long enough to give the heater hose plenty of clearance from the exhaust manifold. Don't want to melt it and lose all of your coolant!

Just in case you don't know... Run the (+) cable coming from under the truck to the (+) terminal on battery #1. Find a short cable to go from the (-) terminal on battery #1 to the (+) terminal on battery #2. Stick the (-) cable grounded on the truck frame on the (-) terminal on battery #2...

You don't need a special tool to get the wires off, but it sure makes life easier. Just find a nice long deep well socket (3/4" if I remember right) and chop one side out so it'll go over the wire without bending it up too much. As a bonus, the same socket will pull the spark plugs, too.

If you don't have a good vacuum source on that diesel, go with a hydroboost setup off a chevy truck. Grab the p/s pump while you're there so you don't have to mod another pump for that extra fluid line you'll need.