Search results

None of us are really bashing the old multifuel. Yes it will get the job done. I actually think its a pretty decent engine. My only real gripe is how weak it is in the horsepower and torque dept. We also never said we were trying to get a higher top speed. Just trying to give it more gonads...

Hard fuel lines you will have to make yourself. Flexible copper works well. On your axle that would be your pinion seal leaking. Looks like you also have some oil seepage coming from that axle boot. You should check out the upgraded inner axle seals I sell. Not cheap but worth every penny...

I'd start a duramax build as soon as I could find a wrecked chevy one ton. Preferably in the mid 2000's. Problem is used take out motors start at 3-5k with no idication of milage and no transmission. I haven't looked yet but I'm sure someone like fleece or banks makes a stand alone computer...

I fully agree that the multifuel is aneamic at best. A dt466 or a 6bt would my first choices fir a 6x6. On a bobber id use a duramax just to be different.

Interesting that you can beef up a 3053 to handle that kind of torque. Never really looked too hard into it. I suggested the nv4500 simply because it would work well with and bolt right up to a 6bt. For most people it would probably hold up just fine. Obviously rebelcummins uses his truck a...

Your evidence for this is?

Turbotim did. I thought I read another thread where m-35tom claimed to have done it but I can't remember. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?102063-So-I-am-having-a-little-trouble-with-my-Steering&highlight=having+trouble+with+my+steering

The torque valve isn't "supposed" to be rebuilt. However several members have done it. I believe m-35tom claimed to have rebuilt one. Might want to give him a shout. Even if you try yourself and fail it was free. Whats it gonna hurt?

Hey dip, how you been? Ya I have wrestled with exactly how I'm going paint my stack but I have a hook up with a powder coater so I think I'm gonna go that route if I don't get sticker shock. If I do then the vht will be my next choice. The muffler is polished stainless. You paint it the same...

I hear a lot of good things about the walker. Didn't know it was a flow through design. Good to know.

Man your lucky you got the parts back. The good news is now you have a giant lego set to play with!!

True, making one would be easy enough. But honestly with the muffler there I think a big shroud would look gaudy. I prefer a much simpler clean look. Not to mention where the stack comes out on the deuce I can't really see how you would touch it. My shroud was mounted up pretty high already...

O boy. Red sludge of death. Ask Clinto how much fun that stuff is. You can also use DOT airbrake line to replace the crushed fuel line. Also, run your new line on top of the frame cross member.

Probably not. It won't fit around the muffler and it really doesn't look bad without it. Once everything is painted it really won't be noticeable. But nothing is set in stone yet.

I keep the o rings needed for the HH in stock. P.m. if your interested.

If I had to guess the aero muffler reduced sound by 3-4db. As stated before it doesn't seem like much but the way the decibel system works that is a significant reduction in sound. If I was driving around town muffs are now unnecessary. On the highway I still will wear them. Only now...

No sorry. I don't have an accurate way to measure sound unfortunately.

Picture of install.

Added an aero turbine 3535 to my truck. Fits nicely between the fender and stack brace. Its a flow through design so egt's will be minimally affected. Its constructed entirely of stainless steel and has no packing to wear out. The sound reduction of this muffler is impressive. I can now...

Glad you got it back running. Good luck. Hopefully you have found all of the leaks.