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These are the times I'm thankful I live up here in the midwest where we might get thunderstorms, tornadoes, straight line winds, and blizzards/ice storms... but never the kind of broadly spread destruction mayhem you folks seem to get every few years. Luckily our disasters are more localized...

Oh, I figured out my problem. The gear oil was 50% water and looked like a milkshake with rust crunchies mixed in and every gear surface on the top shaft was rust pitted. There are photos floating around here somewhere when I pulled it apart. Just imagine the bits of rust as itty bitty ball...

I just ordered the master cyl kit and two wheel cyl kits. If nobody here has a gallon of DOT 5 they are willing to part with cheaper, I'll order one of those from one of the vendors.

I would be as worried about a runaway if the relay stuck or the ATF puddled in the intake as I would be about the friction/lube washing issues. Water methanol works dandy for your engine and we have a system you can build for $200 or less that runs off the truck's air pressure if you don't...

The harness is definitely NOT plug-and-play... but I should be able to patch it with the plugs I can cut off of this one. Hacking up a brand new $50 wiring harness to get a single plug does NOT make me happy. My exhaust pipe adapter was the wrong size. The pass-front wheel cylinder is blown...

I was under the impression that was fine for the axles, but the trans was limited to GL1 for "yellow metal" concerns. Edit: GL1 works and is low cost. MT-1 is the spec to look for to be certain of "yellow metal" compatibility. My bad.

Napa and Tractor supply co... you want GL1 aka old Ford tractor gear oil. It's been covered a million times on here, if you search for it.

If TMs and the occasion web surfing are your only concern, you can get a fairly cheap tablet. A $180 tablet will probably run rings around your current machine, and it will allow you to isolate that old one from the web, making it safer for financials, records, etc. I just picked one up because...

Any of you guys rig these up to inverters to clean up the output wave form?

Greetings from the 'Zoo.

The armor world has been changing so fast in recent years to keep pace with the executive abduction industry, I would wonder if it wouldn't be lighter and maybe even cheaper to use modern civi armor rather than trying to find or copy 10 year old .mil armor kits. Just curious considering the...

Oh... and I'm trying to patch a severely damaged turn signal flasher plug. If I can bypass or replace the whole segment, I'll be in heaven. At worst, I'll cut and patch the good flasher plug into what's left of my harness.

Mine has 2 cannon plugs. One that screws into the flasher and one that I'm guessing hits a lighting junction box or the main harness. Aside from that it has 6 packard plugs on the end with the flasher plug and ground terminal.

Turn signal harness came in. It's a bit smaller than I had thought it would be. Anyone ever installed one of these? It has the plug I was looking for, and a wad of Packard connectors, so that's a plus if I just go the splice and patch route.

Right click to save them and just download them to your hard drive. Open them from there. What kind of connection do you have?

Looking for 395s, 15.5s, 14.5s, 1100 tubes, a trailer suitable for a M35A2... M105 or another... and M35A2 cargo bows and tarp. All depending upon price/condition. I know I can get them all right now if I want to pay top dollar, but I'm in no rush and looking for a good buy.

Awesome! (Except the toasted cylinder) Nice to see the build AND have a report on how it worked. Anything you would have done differently after these first few months of hard use? Any new plans?

Hook a boost/vac gauge line to the intake in front of the air filter. That will tell you everything. $20 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sww-122261

This is on my "to do" list as soon as the weather breaks. Thanks for the tip Gimp!

I was pondering something interesting regarding boost gauges and another thread where some folks were debating if they had "Ram Air" in the old intake scoop. A ball valve that had 2-4 inputs and a single output could be used with one boost/vacuum gauge to tell you exactly what boost you had at...