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I bet that's why. Yes i have T plates Here is the Oregon DMV fee table http://www.odot.state.or.us/forms/dmv/6013.pdf

What are you driving? I pay roughly $135.00 a quarter at 18000lb. Still to much that's why its a motor home next go around.

I wish I was going' to Brads. :(

In the early 80's I had an International pickup that had custom 16" wheels. Nobody made wide 16" tires only 16.5" so I was always calling around for old new stock. Had Lincoln locks so I went through tires fast. Oh how things change.

As far as rust and crud Here is a fuel injection filter that you can use. Its fine enough that rust wont pass large enough that the fuel slows and drops suspended particles like a sediment bowl. I use it on all apps that have rust problems and it works. wix 33097 fram G3802A Put it...

Ya what he said. I forgot all about this post. I subscribe so I would get all the awesome updates and then nothin'.

There are a lot of mechanics that have never worked on a carburetor. In fact I have one that works for me. You need to ask if they have experience with carbs.

Or Guns Or Doughnuts.

I used a big pipe wrench with cheater pipe on the compressor pulley. You can turn it while watching for your red dot

What have you started Mr Unclemikey?

Yes but I will probably not use it. It cost $500 dollars a year for registration. But in Oregon if a camper is permanently attached it must be registered as a motor home. That is about $250 dollars for two years. So I won't be taking it off. But this is what I was gonna do. Build a steel...

I installed a momentary off switch. I hold it down for the minuet or so it takes my tanks to get 65lb of pressure and let go. Lights are great as long as you see it come on.

It is what it is. Took mine on a 200 mile one way trip last summer and found out i could drive it standing up in the cab. At the very least you will need to pad the seats. I would drive it anywhere but my wife is not so inclined. In stock form two hours is about the max time a average...

Any suspended water that collects at the bottom you can drain out. The filter itself absorbs water and only holds just so much. When it is saturated nothing will pass, The filter is pluged and will need to be replaced. Keep a few spares on hand because they don't give much warning.

That's because they know how to handle rust.

Thank's These are the kind of details I need.

Are you serious? Is that how it's done on a cucv? If it is I will pull the emblems and put in some rivets. But I'll want photographic proof!

I decided to do it. I will forever be known as a lowdown no good fake. I shall build the Military Bronco that never was. The FUCV With rattle can in hand operation deception is under way. Here are some pictures. I don't know if I like the black wheels. Maybe I should go olive...

There is one for second, Most of my trouble was down shifting into second. So yes it was a synco problem.

Syncro's are basically clutches that slow down or speed up a gear to make it mate with the other. The friction modifier can reduce the efficiency of the syncro and make it hard to shift. It is not the viscosity that causes the problem it's the friction modifier. Also not all transmissions are...