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Depending on what time I might call you just to shake your hand. I'll be rolling right through there. Thanks guys, it's been a long time to bring her home.

Zero rust, but massively flaking paint (hence my thread on pressure-washer blasters and the build) I checked the bumper numbers, and she was an airfield truck for a helo unit, so I have high hope for her maintenance quality. 1969, 3rd lot production, "C" turbo, airshift, plus a heaterkit I...

My baby... it's been a long time coming.

3 days to go... just bumping this for any guys who might have any warnings/advice.

I think Jesusgatos is going white with his build as well. Odd, but two of the coolest camperdeuces are going to be white. If it makes you feel better, you could think of it as snow camo. Although in rronning84'd case that rainbow stripe would be snow camo for a gay pride parade... :doghead:

Not a lot to report. I installed the new unloader and put my engine/pump assembly on a cart I picked up for $10. When she first starts one of the checkvalves is sticking and she pulses... but after a moment she evens out. Cut a 1x2 in half with a 15 degree tip and the unloader set very low...

All you had to say was "I have a source for cheap torque generators and other hydraulic goodies." All of the "I have a new idea" stuff was what annoyed some of us. Especially considering it wasn't true. C&C wants premium price for his kits, there are a lot of guys here who look at $3000 as...

Unless they were just idiots who wanted a jeep for their own use, I'm afraid wb1895 might be right.

Sure... which one of the 3 ideas will the kit be again? :nothingfunny:

It's a straightforward problem. How to apply force to the front tie rod ends/center link/pitman arm/or steering gear to reduce the effort required by the driver. Easy places for force to be applied: steering wheel, steering shaft, gear box, pitman arm, or center link. Steering wheel: Gym...

Well... day off. First round of parts are in. $50 for a complete unloader. (The split valve tip was $20 alone.) Assembly and testing later today, unless something else melts down and requires immediate attention...:wink: It looks like next week for the blaster attachment to get here, and...

In that case, try what we did with the water injection design. Put the idea out there and let folks build it. I don't worry about liability. It was fun to figure out. And at least one so far (PsycoBob) has been assembled and ran successfully. The guys who decide to build it know EVERYTHING...

I would like to know what we are talking about... Interested? Maybe. What is it?

interesting....

Flow issue figured out... I think. 70psi at the keg, minus 15psi inside the manifold equals and injection pressure of 55psi. Roughly half of what the nozzles are flow rated at. The 6gal injector is only a "6" at 100-120psi... at 50psi it's a 3gal. (roughly) I'll double check all the...

You're running WMO? I hadn't even considered that... That was stupid of me considering the number of guys who do. I'll re-crunch the numbers for WMO/diesel and ATF... It will work out to be a ratio formula that people can plug and play. I'll use your numbers as "actual" vs the stoichiometric...

Wouldn't the idle issue be a droop screw adjustment and NOT a main screw adjustment?

I'm looking at running down the west side of the state from Copemish to Kalamazoo on 31 to M89. I figure that will keep me in double lane 55 zones where I won't cause too many problems. Anything I should be aware of? Anyone in the area if I run into trouble? I will have a chase car, and I'm...

Have you tried adjusting the droop screw? My only issue with recommending this is it previously ran well at the current droop setting. But, that would seem to be the best way to even out the idle issue until you find the culprit. I think you're sucking air somewhere upstream of the HH. Edit...

Too bad the hull isn't what's left... I always wondered what a M35A2 based DUKW would be like.