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I found out my whistler is doing just fine. I stopped in at Little Caesars pizza, parked about 35 feet from the drive thru window and left her running. While at the counter the drive thru girl took her headset off and called to the manager that there was something wrong with the wireless...

He probably knows this but make sure he checked the fuel cut off in the injector pump, mine did that to me on the road and I thought I was in a lot of trouble, but the fix was free once I figured out the problem. Best of luck on the rest of the trip- hope you all can get it done! :driver:

Demil brass ammo, demil HMMWVs, demil goats, and so on. It makes little sense for a broke government to not only demil stuff but devalue it, but it is what it is. :(

Sure sounds like a grounding issue.

Good to see you here again! I use the silicon boots and so far they have both worked great. Sounds like you are going to do both sides and that will actually save you time over trying to do one at a time. It is so much easier to knock out the far side seal by sticking a pipe through the axle...

Shell Rotella is close to that price, and formulated for a diesel. I will stick with that.

Very sad to hear that. Our group of vets is leaving with increasing frequency. Best of luck on finding some of his buddies.

If you do go the ether conversion route, I did take a few pics of mine. I am pretty sure the hole for the nozzle was present and tapped. Below that is the old injector that I just put two plugs in.

Does it have a title, or do you even need one? Good luck with it, it could turn out to be a lot of fun! I really miss mine.

I won't be in the town the truck is in for a day or two but I will look and throw up a pic as soon as I do. I did this a few years ago. I am thinking I was able to just plumb it in, I am pretty sure I did not drill. I did have to make some 1/2 inch spacers with pvc pipe to set the unit off...

I just replaced the airpac, same soft pedal after a lot of bleeding. Anyway, a good day of running her seemed to get the air out on its own. Stops like a car now.

I found the kit I bought, 24 volt and all. http://www.amazon.com/Kats-34100-Button-Ether-Start/dp/B000I8TQUO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1353287532&sr=8-3&keywords=kats+ether $60 bucks. Good luck I hope this helps.

I bought a Kats off ebay. I compared it to the system on my other deuce and it seemed to be exact. It was real easy. I took the wire from the manifold system and used it to power the ether system. I bought 2 little brass plugs for the old manifold injector, I left the spark plug in as it...

You have already spent enough time and money to have put on an ether system. :) Just sayin. After all, that is what the Army did after fussing with the manifold heaters for years.

http://www.xm381.com/xm381/TMs_files/WIRING%20SCHEMATIC.pdf You are correct that the voltmeter grounds to the panel at the "octopus" wiring- that wiring also grounds all the instruments. Looks like #27 feeds the voltmeter, it also provides +24v to the fuel gauge, oil pressure and temp gauges.

Sounds like the manifold heater

You do have to get under it and check everything out. I just put a new airpac on and mine now stops like a car.. I also recommend a remote reservoir- someone is selling these in the ads. If properly maintained it is a great system, easy to maintain and easy to repair. BUT it must be watched...

The electric fuel pump should do most of the priming. Loosen some injector fittings and crank, let it rest, crank again. White smoke indicates too little fuel getting to the cylinders.

I watched a bunch of 003As go yesterday and on a trailer they were over two grand! I guess the storm drove up demand. Glad I got mine when I did.

319 is correct as always, and to add to that this is on a M35A3, with the filter and dryer it is unlikely the valves on the bottom of the tank will fail as my A3 never had anything but clean air in the tanks.