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I recently found a source for free used WMO, light hydraulic oil, etc for free. I can do all the research on how to get it ready for use, but I'm looking for people who have done this in a CUCV with the 6.2l. I tried searching this forum, but didn't find much. Any suggestions on where to...

Yeah, I'm good on the coolant side. I was more curious on the oil and transmission fluid. I don't know how much, if any, stays behind in the radiator. If it's just a smidge, I'm not worried about it. But if a quart stays in there, I need to be on top of it. When I dropped it off, the guy...

I'm taking my radiator in tomorrow to get rodded out or recored or whatever they want to do to it. It doesn't leak at all, just very crudded up on the inside. Pretty easy to get out, except for the dang upper transmission cooler line. That thing wouldn't break free. I tried a line wrench...

Another way to get the clip out is to use an old rag. Slip it behind the crank and it will catch the end of the hook. Once it's caught, just pull and the clip will come out.

Right. I would tend to agree here. I don't think the problem is with the fan or clutch. The water pump also is probably not an issue. Hoses have been replaced within the past 16 months. Fins are all good. None of the issues above. There are, however, deposits on the ends of the tubes...

bump.

Well... Dangit. Problem's back. :sad: Runs right at 190-195 at idle and slow driving. Take it on the freeway and the temp quickly climbs to ~210, and seems like it would just keep rising if I don't get off it. Heater blows hot. This overheat issue only occurs at driving speed. Fan clutch...

Whereabouts in AZ are you?

I really need to do this. Mine shifts at like 25 1-2 and 50 2-3. I know my lines are shot as well.

Yes. OD Iron or nostalgicairparts.com

Pull out the starter relay. Using a heavy gauge wire, jump the red and purple wire (on the plug). If it starts, it's your relay. If it doesn't, you've got more places to look. Maybe a bad solenoid on the starter?

My guess would be that it's not wired like you expect. I'm not sure, and I'm just throwing this out there. The switch might actually complete a ground rather than a 12v+. In other words, you need to have an "always on" hot wire going to the light, and a ground going to the switch. You could...

Solenoid = $50. Starter + solenoid = $100. If I've got to pull the starter out anyway, I might as well put a new one in for the extra $50. Agree? I can keep the old one as a back-up...

I ran to the store yesterday, everything was good to go. When I came out, I turned the key to crank, and nothing. I thought for sure my starter relay had gone out. I reached up under the dash and pulled it out. Banged it around a little, put it back in, nothing. There was a parts store just...

Was cruising around in North Phoenix and came up on an M1009, OD, Military Police stencils on the tailgate, proper antennas and all. Nice looking '09, if you're on here..

You really should consider replacing the u-bolts. Re-using them really isn't a great plan. It will work, but you might find your axles coming loose after a while. Pick up some new ones at any spring shop. They'll custom make them to your specs for ~$50 an axle.

Could you, and get away with it? Maybe. If it were my, I wouldn't. You could end up losing all your fluid if a seal breaks, and then it would be rather difficult to stop. If it were me, I'd just run down a junkyard and find one of the little pushrods/pistons.

Ok, I'm now 99.99% sure after looking at your pics. In your pic, the rod/piston should be where the blue line is in the red circle. It pushes against the shoe. In the other pic I found, it just kind of gives you an idea of what it should look like. It looks like a bolt with a notched oval head.

I could be mistaken, but I'm about 99% sure that that is one of the pistons off the brake cylinder. Lemme see if I can find a picture of one.