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Sometimes you can use a laser thermometer to check the exhaust manifold right at each cylinder as it's running/warming up, to see if one or more is cooler than the others. Not sure if that works with these engines or not, as I mostly do it on smaller engines with tubular type exhausts.

Yes, the 2 wires going to the cadillac valve from the TDM. As mentioned above, doing the positive wire is better as it kills power to the valve. Normally, yes, most things that would cause a failure of the fan circuit will leave the cadillac valve without power, and therefore the fan engaged...

How some of us refer to LMTVs isn't suitable to be posted in a public forum.

Yes, you can wire in a switch. All you need to do is interrupt the power to the cadillac valve, so if you want to do it at the thermoswitch circuit, or right at the cadillac valve, it should work the same (though if the TDM fails it can prevent the fan from engaging, so at the cadillac valve...

if nothing else, not seeing any other vehicles on the road for 100 miles at a time was a bit of a novelty, and driving through whatever "national forest" that was that had scrub pines spaced 100 feet apart was amusing. I don't know if the scales still say no pickups, but not having to deal with...

My recommendation for going down to pick it up is drive through Nevada instead of commifornia. Commifornia laws are a lot stricter about when you're supposed to pull into weigh stations and whatnot. But then, I was driving an F450 with a gooseneck trailer, so legally I was required to stop at...

Verify with a laser thermometer that your gauge is reading accurately. The gauges are notorious for being innacurate. That being said, when my temps were above what they were supposed to be, it was a failed TDM (Time Delay Module)

it has to do with the tow rating of the HMMWVs. The older ones were rated for 3400 lbs towing; the newer ones or ones that got a reinfocement plate are rated for 4200 lbs towing. As other have said, the trailers themselves are identical but for data plate ratings.

https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG17_uid252021123202.pdf

For your own use, you might be better off making a cable with the correct end on it, rather than trying to find something already made. Mine I have what looks like a computer power cable that plugs into the NATO slave port in the truck. I think it's supposed to be for some type of battery...

might be a little confusion here, but the fan clutch is a dead end system. It doesn't have to be purged of air to function. Over time the air does get purged, because the fluid comes in and compresses the air, and the air gradually makes it's way up the hose to the cadillac valve as the fan...

The earlier trucks (A0/A1) the diff mounting bracket is in the way of the seals. First time you replace the seal with the diff out, you grind back enough metal from the brackets so as to not interfere with doing it in the future. Later trucks it can be done with the diffs in the truck no...

I definitely like mine. I have cracked the housing a couple times when I had the lights on and drove much too fast into standing water (1' deep or more with enough speed that it was well over the roof of the cab) but at $40ish per housing it's still cheaper than a quality LED assembly with...

Checking multiple spots and the radiator hoses would be a good indication if the thermostat is opening properly. I've also seen what people thought was overheating/boiling coolant was actually blown head gasket putting combustion gasses/pressure into the cooling system.

It's been a couple months now, have you gotten everything installed and working, and if so what is your opinion on it?

Have you verified any of these temps using a laser thermometer? These are notorious for the gauges to be inaccurate, or wiring issues with high resistance causing incorrect readings.

What voltage do the batteries read while you are trying to crank over the engine?

Easiest thing to do is get a pressure gauge and thread it into the end of the fitting with the bleed screw. The fan clutch just needs pressure, not flow. It's a dead end system, so slow flow will just make it take longer to disengage; not prevent it from doing so.

I believe it has a pressure regulator in it for something about 120psi to the fan clutch

the guy you just responded to is "Camo" and makes an aftermarket replacement for the smart box