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There is no power to the 24V line unless the lights are on. I've had no horn since I bought the rig, and as I said, best I can tell it's not getting ground (-), but is getting 24V.

Was wondering if someone had a point to diagnosing what might be wrong with the horn on my M998. I looked in the service manuals and didn't see any flow charts on checking the horn wiring. So far, I've checked AT the horn. I've got 24V where I should. The other line has no voltage (or -). I...

I tried a 3/32" clutch cable, went to what felt like the first bend and stopped moving.. (from both sides).. Ya, mine is either damaged, or so full nothing wants to drill into the packed in dirt/debris. As for how water gets in, from the hood area basically.. just runs down onto the top of the...

tried it, still plugged..

My 6.5L is plugged. I’ve tried everything and it’s still plugged. No idea what to try next, but everything I’ve tried in either end gets stuck in the bend areas. good luck

Check all your grounds, check the turn signal switch connections, etc. Edit: I forgot to add, my 1988 had similar problems, in my case all but one item was a corroded ground at the light. The remaining case was a lose wire under the dash near the turn signal switch. Just plugged the connector...

My '67 Kaiser-jeep has lock washers on the U-Joint bolts. So that bit doesn't surprise me, but ya.. you just need to broke in the u-joint (or know it's number) and you should be able to get the right bolts pretty easily. (Since this is all AMG, good chance it's just a vintage Jeep or AMC part.)

flasher on mine is on the firewall behind the dash right behind the turn signal arm. Really easy to see without having to take anything apart. Are you having issues with JUST the flasher, or are all your lights going out? Checking grounds might be a good idea, but I agree, I'm inclined to say...

How did it get into the hubs? Vent lines connected in a normal case, or is this something related to the deep water fording?

My 1988 M998 is cut in exactly the same way. Found it last fall when I was crawling under. Not obvious in my case, but my unit was a radio shelter unit at some point in it's life -- so I suspect the demil just whacked it along with other radio related wires.

All of the bolts that I've looked up the specs for have been either chromed or zinc coated. (Zinc is far cheaper and easier to source!). So ya, go with good old fashion zinc bolts. :)

Just an FYI, I had a 'real' top do exactly the same thing. Broke the ring and then slightly ripped. Had someone with a heavy duty sewing machine go across the rip to try to re-enforce it. I think it's just the price we pay for having machines where the tolerances are all over the place.

Just as an FYI. I went out to my M998 w/ 200 AMP generator and the 12V charge circuit going to the middle positive. Voltage wise, it matches what you saw. The rear batter (vehicle neutral and middle positive) is at 15V, the front battery (middle negative to vehicle 24V positive) is at 13.7...

I ordered the funky shaped corner ones.. but for the flat ones, I'll try home depot or similar. Aluminum isn't as easy to buy as steel when I've looked before (at least not aluminum with strength greater than that of a beer can.) If I can't find something local, I'll put a wanted on the...

That helps tremendously. About how wide do you think those are? inch and a half or so? I'm thinking at this point I can just order some aluminum flat stock and cut/drill them myself. Edit: I did finally find them when I looked again in the TM. 5340012559510 or 12339009 (need 6) They look...

I just installed NOS troop seats on my 2-man M998 over the weekend. In the instructions it talks about how there should be bolts and metal plates in the body, and to re-use the washers/bolts and metal plates. Washers/bolts were easy hardware store purchases. However, the metal plates I don't...

20 PSI at the lowest (off-road -- fields, dirt roads, etc..).. I usually run at 25-30 PSI. I don't think I'd run lower then 20 PSI, except by accident.. but I would also expect down to 15 would hold up in light conditions.. but I wouldn't chance it.

My '67 Jeepster with a Buick v6 has one of those. As was mentioned, when it's cold it causes some additional back pressure to force hot exhaust to go up into the intake and through the heat activated choke. Not something I would expect on a diesel. :)

First spring. Figured I'd give an update. The new control box and glow plugs worked wonders over the winter. Didn't drive it a lot, but drove it some. Each time it started quickly and was a lot of fun. Put a 2-man arctic top and doors on it as well, plenty warm even at 0F out. Now that...

loosen the alternator/generator.. that will give you the slack.. when doing the generator, have someone adjust the tensioner all the way back.. (At least this is how someone I know in the service said they did it in the field.)