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BTW.- just a clarification... will one, two, or ?? of the structure/framing stand by itself with no guy wires? Stable enough to add on section at a time?? (no cloth/tarp yet) or would you HAVE to rope it down good for just the structure/frame too stand on its own?

:unsure::driver:gotta come help to find out :ROFLMAO:

good points... Have to brainstorm more on ceiling. For sides.... wonder if would work better to attatch bottom...and fold it zig zag...atop that. That way as hoist it up along the sides.....not actually lifting full weight of the whole thing. (still a section..... maybe two at a time).

sir..... still worry about taptalk links as a way to get images into post... hope you upload any of them into here that are still on their server. Say that cause 100% of all pic hosting services switched to EXTORSION business model. (demand you pay yearly fee or loose every picture you have...

with frame fully assembled..... is it..... itself strong enough to hang pulley(s) from to hoist a roof tarp section from peak ends of each section.. Similar question .... pulleys @12ft eve on sides to pull up a wall section? while it holds the tarps when assembled... that weight is spread...

Whats your thought on a 2x4 version of the far end cross bars instead of cables (or on addition too). Seems that might make my build plan work better.

Similar to this method is what am planning for whole construction .... but instead not from a Tractor bucket.. build each section from roof of a LMTV's Hard Cargo Box and install/hang legs like you did off each side. ... then jack that section up / tuck legs into place..till its free...

If anyone is in Southern OH or surrounding area... Am putting up one now.... By myself.. no crane one LMTV with Hard Cargo Cover to stand on and some big ass Jack stands that will put on its roof to assemble one section at a time. Wish me luck. PS- got some motorcycles, part(s) car diesel...

I wonder if it would not just be better to have a 4x4 fab (or a Fab welder) just make you a new tie rods with more modern and available ends. Places like Barnes may have or can lead you to joints.

not having memorized your setup...... wear on front may be because you have lot more weight on front.. (engine). Definitely case if you have nothing on the back but chassis and bed. Thats not a lot over the rear axle realistically.

this looks amazing.. love the vent in back side of the cab.... and the door latch/handle is shiat loads better than what ended up with. Not sure that is a steyr cab or not... you got any more pics of that cab posted anywhere? Interestingline that rear drive shaft does not look to have that...

catch 22 is.. might be less expensive to have a local welder make you one than it would be to ship that heavy thang.

:unsure: :shrugs:

someone asked.... so here it is

PBC for what? > How fast/far the passenger ejection seat works?? > remote for using like Full Size RC truck??? > rear steer?, > Hydraulic Hopping??

If it is ..... it beats my shop . (for now.. thats next project after Jeep gets running)

apologize.. in a hurry and didnt look in advance... are you putting a build thread here in the Military RV Camper Conversion Forum on this board? Folk would love it if you are https://www.steelsoldiers.com/forums/rv-camper-conversion.176/

@Ronmar was kind enough to link it for you. For future reference .. the forum with all the manuals (Technical Manuals) is page one of this whole Discussion Board's forums. Home / Forums / Technical Manuals / pick your vehicle FMTV in this case

was searching about common grounds between 12v and 24v... for a different project.... Found this thread. Answered my question. you can have common ground between 12v and 24v. For shiats and grins will bring this ancient thread up and throw a monkey wrench between the battery lugs and let it...

more detail please on "mark the gear reduction unit" thanks in advance