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what about M1079. curious SStevens approach to front/back weight ratio for those

for beast this large... think you need to front heavy compared to rear....... so not 50/50 front to rear... maybe 60/40, or 55/45 that way when climbing the weight shifts from those to 50/50 due to gravity rear loading. Would think starting at 50/50 and then on up climbs moving it to 40/60...

btw above was a bit aimed at @hike , @Keith Knight , @olly hondro

Was watching video recent of an LMTV off roading lifting a tire..... boy did that bring back memories... annnnyway.... if for some odd reason you reallllllly want to keep a wheel on the ground more cause you are going to reallllllly wheel your LMTV...... here is old school leaf spring design to...

If I remember it right.. and I honestly don't remember where I saw a report that Eco on a truck already with the 3.07 gears ... may not mix well on paper (ratio wise). and that may be true.... wonder though if that combo would let you go DOWN a tire size to one that is commercially, easily...

huh??? confused.... what is wrong with asphalt? Yes on the jackstands not on asphalt; unless you have a wider base to sit below the stand to prevent sink. I had friend weld used brake disk rotors to bottom of my stands cause I usually am in dirt..... asphalt would be heaven for me

two 12v better IMHO, if your not throwing a converter in there. If wanting to get home as is, two 12v smart chargers, may be your best bet sense one batt gets more 12v draw than the other, having the two smart ones to get you home then seems would with out needing converter. @Ronmar ...

there is no commercial alt. that will fit the alt bracket on these trucks. You have to re-configure yours or have one fabbed for you. Not something you can do on the road. Once home you can machine out bracket you have to install a commercial and convertor on it. BTW- if your on the road...

@InvictusDecretum Post 15. from Thurs... all the your pics are dead. If you uploaded them to here... hmmm??? not sure what is up.. If you linked to them.... works way better to just upload them to here then post them somewhere else then link em.

what bead product did you use?

nahhhh. tweeker will give up before they can get thru these tanks. Now a regular car or truck with thin sheet metal fuel tanks...... that's different. no drill need. Strong nail and hammer is all you need.

Yup... prevented my LMTV from burning to the ground from smell of wires burning.. started chasing all around it (after removing power from batts)... but magic smoke was still being released... Tilted cab lickedy split and found the smell was coating on windings in my Neihoff.... AND it was on...

Well have heard of "seat of the pants" (feel) driving... the "nose knows" method ... that one is new to me LOL :driver: (not really.... am exactly the same myself too)

Looks like it is TM 9-2320-365-20-3 section 11-9 page 11-45

Agree- though suspect he was just reporting experience with how it aided driving with his Eco Hub swap- not really expecting it to get much responses... but it did. Is what it is. MODERATOR/ADMIN. can you do your magic and split out various post on this braking topic, and Oil Pump Topic to...

Just be aware when you replace that braided hose.... metal braided hoses love to saw right thru things.. keep it well away from stuff.

Have you found any info on this in your TM's yet?

A0, A1, A1R truck?? (what year is it) Maybe they are all the same when it comes to Treadle Valve .... best not to assume and include more truck details?

side note.... one of the balancer companies like centramatic also makes a driveshaft balancer that works on similar principle!!! They make tire balancer's like centramatic too. https://www.balancemasters.com/driveshafts

do you have the pump tilted? Pretty sure it is suppose to have some slope. it is part of how a metering pump works on these. This video covers the wear/tear of pump if not angled... but only mentions in fast passing there is possible air lock happening not allowing fuel thru after the air...