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Well, that's not true and you put it in the Internet.

I vote for the (gentle) hammer-on repair or the drill-and-tap repair because the other methods heat up the post quite a bit. It's supported by plastic and that seal needs to be maintained or you have a mess of seeping acid. If it still seals after the mishap, heating it again might be asking...

Yeah, I've seen a little of what you posted myself. The web is full of self-proclaimed experts giving advice, so I guess the military generator information is about on par. I can tell you that in the year that I've had my 003A, I've used it to power the house monthly, and for real multi-hour...

To my surprise, the Walmart batteries I've gotten in the last 6 or 8 years here in NC have been amazingly good. I have to say that all batteries I've gotten in my 55 year life have been a crap shoot though.

Yes, the diodes can be changed. You should be fine with any of the inexpensive 1N400X diodes (1N4001, 1N4002, etc. where higher numbers are rated for higher voltages). Check and replace any bad ones. Many digital meters have a diode test function. Otherwise, use a low current test lamp to...

I just checked mine, Ike. If you push the throttle knob all the way in, the longest dimension should be the bottom frame (skid).

I'm using two group 24 batteries in my 003A. They fit well in the length direction, so they stay put OK. The group 51 size is almost an inch shorter, so wouldn't fit as nicely. Congratulations on getting the new generator!

Sounds like the magneto on my Gravely, which is a typical Wico Mag. When cranking, it winds up like that so when it snaps there's enough speed to make a spark. When it speeds up, it quits doing that and runs normally. A four cylinder 4-stroke engine fires every 180 degrees, since each...

To reuse a copper gasket, anneal it by heating it red hot all over. You can let it cool, or quench it in water. Quenching will flake off most of the black oxide. Don't bend or otherwise cold work it after the annealing and it will be full-soft and as good as new.

I didn't know it when I got my 003A either, and thought I was pretty special, being able to start it without preheat on a nice hot July day in NC, even though it took a few seconds to fire. When I figured it out I felt kinda dumb.

The 002A and 003A activate the glow plugs when cranking, so even without preheat, you're using the glow plugs to start if they're functional.

From my experience with my 003A, if both glow plugs are bad, it won't start. It'll just blow white fuel vapor out the exhaust pipe.

I wouldn't think twice about having a respected board member like Jerry do them, rather than an unknown local guy. Shipping on little parts like this is cheap.

If you want brass, McMaster-Carr has brass rod in various sizes cheap. I get orders from them less than 24 hours from when I place them.

It's certainly not going to work right if H5-H6 is open-circuited like that. To check diodes you really need either a meter with a diode testing mode, or to pass a small current through them with a battery or power supply and a resistor, and measure the voltage across them. You should see...

Jerry, just Google "making biodiesel" or something similar. From what I understand, it will run fine in any diesel engine without any modifications. The only disclaimer is that it can't work in quite as cold a temperature as regular diesel fuel can. It's actually sold at gas stations in some...

You're certainly welcome. I'm sure you will, but please keep us posted.

The flashing circuit applies 24V to the exciter field through the resistor on the diode board A4 during starting. According to the schematics, the 002A will get flashing voltage as long as the master switch is in the start position, but the 003A has the flashing voltage cut off by the engine...

CVT1 puts out 3-phase AC at its terminals X1, X2, and X3. That AC is rectified by six diodes on board A4, and sent to the exciter field. The regulator controls how much of this 3-phase AC is produced by CVT1, which has control windings connected to its terminals C1 and C2. Transformer T1's...

There are essentially no electrical differences between the 72-5020 and 72-5338 AC voltage regulators. The changes are of things like resistor power ratings and board layout, but nothing to change the operation of the circuits.