Search results

if I recall right a few post up says his goal is geographically opposit of yours.. he plans to use it mostly in Alaska

the fellow who did the welding is a high end welder for massive critical projects (deep sea Oil tankers,, oil rigs etc)..... he likely new what he was doing. Again he did it with borrowed equipment though. It did go 1,000-ish miles after. Agree though.... 4 spots certainly looks sketchy...

Makes sense for a hole with a bottom to it.... not sure if its worth it if the hole goes all the way thru allowing you to put a nut on the opposite end, like it appears to be in this situation

no thrust forces cause Spiders Removed?

Pretty common for folk not to see that one. Many of newbies miss it. Maybe it's cause climbing in folk are too busy looking at foot / hand holds to not slip orrr?? Not sure..... but it certainly is common. When in driver seat your left knee obstructs it.

same with military and often that goes to lowest bidder that claims/shows to- meets the prescribed standards.

that kinda what I thought..... think it was another thread where it was mentioned spiders may be needed to hold inner gear..... so figured Id ask instead of assuming.

looking at where the welds are.. looks like it would have worked better if the welds were located better so they fall in that spot between the spiders gears. Then could retain spider gears to help hold the inner gear; thus bearing nut, firmly at home as designed. I'll test fit the spiders in...

yeah that was the (attempted) point..... as in the box needs to be strong enough to not deflect its shape at this point..... all shape change must be at the spring.

what do you want me to take picture of next? I can disassemble further down to the spindle nut. Back side gear is still in place. Looked normal to my (poor) memory so didnt dig further. Nut and shims would be below that right? Dont know if when he removed this from axle and housing if he...

not sure if I need to go deeper..... included is modified to 1:1 hub seller of my truck used for about 3k miles. Whole assembly is NOT attached to my truck. Seller had already put new OEM hubs back in once (he thought) a person he hired to fix rear axle ; while he was away, had done a good...

as to Captive springs and rigidity..... IMHO both need to be rigid... but chassis usually is already quite rigid. Long ago chassis had more flex intentionally... not the case for long while now in truck designs though adding more wisely (so not to crack chassis) may be needed sometimes...

Am just down the road from ya.... but am a better searcher of information than am a mechanic. Honestly wish opposit. Anyway.... this might help you get answers on the rear system Real Time Labs As to the front system.. any big rig shop worth its salt should be able to advise you. Like...

still got to fix the leak though..... or your compressor will stay on too much and give you new problems. Now could well be the Ctis pushing air in thru the hoses sorta kicked some gunk out ..... or?? and that stopped your leak... may be. When the truck sits does that right front still...

New idea for ya. This product not heavy enough for our tires.... but might spark ideas for your own design.

me too, three and four. Don't have any yet. 3 winches in pieces but no snatch blocks yet lol

NO.... very different charging parameters. Also since they accept a charge so easy... you can start your typical alternator on fire.. the regulator does not know to dial it down ..... this helps.

oversize slightly and retap accordingly? paint head of nut and area on pan well to mark it is a different size than others?? Maybe doing metric will let you oversize less if how much oversize space available is limited?

is this the same sensor that is used to excite the alternator?

IF CAB IS UP..... find some sound way to ensure it stays up ...... as you work on things....... and seek to have way to lower it in a controlled manner if a path way opens in hydraulics to let the cylinder retract.