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You only get china stuff if you don't have a clue. No really... The connectors I got from the auction site are NOS Bendix made in the late 70s... 100% US made! At a price that can't be beat... Plus you get 3 US made NOS Bendix connectors. Isn't going to happen using Digikey, Mouser, or Newark...

I posted this as a PSA and not a joke. You would not know if your rear main or trans seal is blowen with the drain plug in. There could also be water inside. Mine had water in the bell housing when I first got the truck...

I do not use snake oil... I fix stuff right... and that is to replace the seal and bushing.

I think this is the battery for the ECU... But not sure. I don't have an ECU in my leaky truck but if I did I would find a way to replace the battery. There should be a way to replace without losing memory.

After my issues with the leaky front transmission and watching the video below... makes me wonder if there are more leaks out there? Have you taken your bell housing drain plug out and checked for oil?

While jump starting does have the potential to send a voltage spike down the system, I don't think internally shorted batteries would cause this type of damage. Then again strange things can happen. If the ECU can't handle a voltage spike the engineer who designed it was a HACK. There are...

Not for 24.95 USD for 3 shipped ...

I would think an internal short in the battery would just cause the battery to drain and go to zero volts. How did it mess up the ECU?

If you want to use a connector that will plug into the CTIS connector there are some on the big "e" auction site. Just look up 451-00AC16-26P-50

From that I can tell the earily trucks didn't have the guard for the cab lifting cylinder and the air tanks.

I went to the store in Everett WA 3 months ago and got one. They are a distributor. There are dealers and distributors. You need a distributor and not a dealer i believe. Maybe it's just the one I use. Here's a link to the distributors https://www.interstatebatteries.com/distributor-locations...

some info

Yes I have been running 4 24Fs

I got my 24Fs from Interstate Battery and got "blems" for 29.99 each. I have had zero issues with blems and have been running for years. . They also have a 1 year non prorated Warranty . I think the next time I got battries I think I'll get 2 24F and 2 24. The "F" is for Ford and the terimnals...

Not a M1088 but I just use group 24 battries in my truck... Heck I went to the interstate place and got blems for 29.99 each. I have yet to have an issue. Also all of my vehicles, daily drive and all run blems. Have 5 years on my daily drive's blem

I'll try to make sence... Just woke up and coffee blood level isn't right yet. M and Z are how they allow the same ECU to be used between different model vehicles. They can used those to pins to come up with 9 options or variants. Here is a page from the manual. Config1 is M and Config2 is Z...

You can not use an auction for "street" value.

Just a picture today... Trans leak is getting worse.

I got all of the connectors to start to make the programing cord adapter harness thingy . Technical term... Now just need to do the wiring

H and F are the power in. M sets the configuration of the ECU. The ECU has the ability to have 9 different configurations. Does anyone have the schematic of the later trucks?