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You OBVIOUSLY aren't holding your tongue correctly or not using the right swear words! It wiggles out without removing anything but the mounting bolts and lines. If you wait a week to put the replacement in you won't remember how to get it back in!

If it's the same guy i'm thinking of, I heard that too.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dodge-ram-cummins-injector-return-banjo-bolt-4942278/Fuel-Injector-Components-Gaskets Same as the 12V B series return. Search around for the p/n 4942278 and see what you find

No way to repair them, tried on multiple times. The 6mm banjo bolts are soft. Tighten just enough to seat the sealing washer....the little looped copper deal....or they WILL snap off. Don't reuse the seals and it's OK if they distort a bit when tightening. When installing, move the loop part to...

I have installed many. Very easy to install. Not much to remove, just depends on what other things are bolted to the engine. No reason to carve anything up.

If you charged the system and nothing came back out the compressor discharge at the compressor, the check valve is fine

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/any-other-anti-theft-ideas-guys.20025/page-3#post-209885 Had on on my deuce, worked great until I lost the key for the lock!

Devin Freeman made one...djfreema. Let me see if I can find the post.

A quick test to see if the PB is locked on, go under the truck with a hammer and tap on the PB drum. A ring it is NOT stuck, a thud, stuck. And, sometimes if things rust stuck on, release the brake....chock things....and give the drum a couple of whacks.

Minor kit should do you fine UNLESS there has been coolant through it and the seats are pitted. Use STP on the o-rings. You should get the water grommets for the coolant pipes because they will leak if they are hard. There should be a check valve at the inlet to the wet tank. If the valve is...

Welcome from "down the hill", by 210/15, but 30 miles west!

Just use what you would use on your pick up when servicing. Grease has evolved. I like to use the red stuff from Valvoline.

I replied to your msg. I will put it here too. That is a 3.2 GPM pump. It might work well for a small yard tractor, but not a big piece of equipment....unless it is REALLY in a pinch and you have nothing but time. Better off looking for a transfer pump that is made to transfer diesel. EDITED...

Manifold is N14. Turbo also looks to be from N14. HT3B did not have marmon flange compressor outlet. Don't remember model number, it is a divided entry. The turbo/manifold combo above will make things work sooner, small port manifold and turbo, however, the exh ports on N14 were small to...

And, as to the typewriter comment above, MOST of the time it is the crosshead that makes the noise. I do not believe that I have covered the adjustment of those because it is a feel/visual thing. Maybe one day I can do a video of how to set them up and/or adjust them.

Could have been converted, I did mine. The reason for asking is to determine which side to look at. One can be a diaphragm/check valve in one spot, the other can be an issue in two different places.

I once found a live grenade in the toolbox of a truck I was inspecting, this was when things went through DRMO and was at Barstow. When I told the guy his reaction was "what?" for the first one and when I walked him out to the truck and showed him, his eyes got real big, said something along the...

Is the switch in the air or fluid side?

If it ain't broke..... If it were me, runs fine, not an unusual amount of smoke and didn't sound like a typewriter, I'd leave it alone.

Nope, that stuff faded away faster than milk writing on parchment. Easy enough, pull the lids and determine what injector you have....the data plate on the accessory drive ear should tell you if it is still there....then just follow the above for which injector you have. If when you look down at...