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I have a feeling that the GP card is not getting the proper resistance from the temperature sensor. That would keep the Orange LED/Wait light from coming on. Check to ensure that the Yellow and the Black wire going to the engine temp sensor are intact and are connected to good sensor located...

Pull the card and see if the voltage on the Dark Blue wire goes away. Do the LED's on the card light up?

Moved to proper forum.

Thanks for the compliments. This truck and camper are scheduled for use on the 2019 MVPA Convoy. So it's not going to be sold anytime soon. Now do I fix up the 5 ton or rebuild the M1010??

The sensor to the rear of the engine on the passenger side of the block is for the IP advance/high idle. It's actually a switch and not a thermister. The GP sensor changes resistance value with temp.

I agree, it does do well down hill.......

Factory location of the temp sensor was on the drivers side head near the firewall.

Finally got a chance to try towing the M101A2 camper behind the modified M1008. Rebuilt engine, transmission, transfer case, new driveshaft parts, new spring bushings, cab mounts, engine mounts, new shocks and a few other new parts. This truck rides much better and handles much better than...

Power on the Pink/black wire is normal. This powers the GP card and the relay. The GP card sends a ground command on the Light Blue wire to the GP relay to close it. The Light Blue wire will have voltage on it (thru the coil of the relay) if the GP card is not sending a ground command to the...

I would use a piece of #18 gauge wire for monitoring the 12 volt side. Putting a fuse inline near the 12 volt source is highly recommended. You can use the same wires from the 24 volt meter. The ground is the same for both sides of the electrical system. The new meter(s) will come on and off...

In the photo of the relay, it appears there is a black wire going to the terminal with the orange wires. Where does that wire go? Is it connected to the Wait light? If so, it should not. You will need to remove any and all additional wiring, splices or other hacks from the civilian controller...

The skid steer has been a big help with this project. Tomorrow the hood and maybe the bed go back on.

Still assembling the M1008. But seems to be missing 2 major pieces.

I agree with CUCVRUS. Check the Red fusible link wire coming off of the 24V positive bus bar. This wire feeds the starter relay with 24 volts and it feeds the 24v fuse in the fuse box. It is labeled 1RED-2Z THERMO HW in the CUCV starting circuit diagram.

The missing gaskets arrived today from paradox. Thank you!

Still reassembling the truck. I may have it running this week.

My kit did not come with gaskets, looks like they are now part of the kit.

Yes I did install new poly for the body, trans/transfer case mount, springs and radiator. I am looking forward to seeing if it improves the ride. Also installed second fuel tank, transfer pump and associated wiring. Replaced every piece of rubber I can find. Had the engine rebuilt, transmission...

It's much easier if there is someone else there to position the cab in the correct location. And if you do not need to cut the floor pans to get the body mount bolts to come out and go back in. Actually, these trucks are pretty simple to take apart and reconstruct.

Put the cab back on and started to connect everything up.