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Ok, i just helped someone with this same issue, the system deflated all the tires, out in the middle of nowhere… it was a clogged vent… like I described in the deflate cycle, control seals the PCU, then supply pressurizes it, then deflate connects the PCU to a 6.5PSI relief that drops the PCU...

Yea, that was a good one.

@Freedom Land Clearing Here are the pins in the controller to remote control/test the PCU and look for leaks Using a pair of jumpers.

If I worked on them everyday, having the interface would be handy, but for a basic DIY troubleshoot, it is just as easy to jump the pins to control the PCU and test valve function and pressurize the system to look for leaks. Leaks are the usual issue with CTIs anyway… You can probe the sensor...

Well it wasnt wrong, you did indeed have a issue with the wet tank switch circuit, not enough airpressure to close it:) That has been a fairly common CTIS issue, low governor setpoint... i dont recall if it causes 5 flash though, did yours?

different harnesses in different vehicles has been documented. I think Sean even covered it in a video. The A1 wiring diagram shows this with 3 power inputs, an some being listed as "optional" which indicates some sort of option:) at any rate his appears to be configured at least like the A0...

Ok, now I am tracking. You can control the 3 solenoid valves and the pcu function with a pair of jumper wires at the controller connector. Pin H should have 24V with the switch on. Pin R feeds the control solenoid. Pin B feeds the air supply solenoid. Pin C feeds the deflate solenoid...

So when you say no bursts of air at port "C", What exactly are you identifying as port C? The port on the side of the plastic cover?

I was mistaken. L is not listed on any documentation I have. H, M, Z are the indicated power inputs, shown in the manuals. Those 3 pins would give you 7 possible configurations to control programming. It shows H and Z connected on the 1078A0 manual.

Yea the wire pin z was twisted with is probably ultimately connected to H. If so it will have 24v on it with switch on. It was probably the wire L was originally connected to. I will have to lookup what L is used for this afternoon to confirm, but on the 1078 schematic I believe L was...

If Z was the free wire twisted with the other wire, I suspect it was twisted with the wire going to pin H(24V)? One way they made these units compatible with different vehicles is by how power is applied to the controller Via the harness. There are at least 3 different pins that can accept...

I have seen a few reports of people running antifreeze, and it just disappeared over time. not sure how that works:)…

They are where the tire side hose(smaller hose) connects to the wheel valve... they are fit in the port on the wheel valve where the hose attaches...

The CTIS system already has in-line filters on the tire side of the wheel valves... i know people who are running them without issue. Because of the beadlock band I believe it would be very difficult for beads to fall/find their way into the hub mounted airpipe as it would act as a shield/roof...

Well the loaded/switch on test is the most important. Voltage is never considered good unless tested under load... you should be able to do that by yourself, i do it by myself, hook up the meter and flip the switch...

So have you run the volt meter tests at battery and power panel I described a few posts back? You seem to be just trying stuff without really identifying what is happening. I call this troubleshooting in a Vacuum, measure 12 and 24 to chassis ground at the batteries. With charged batts...

Your truck is a good example. Your torque has been bumped up a little, 860ft/lb peak, I think? but the differential drop from 3.9 to 3.07 cancels some of that torque out before it gets to the wheels, making it perform like a truck with 670ft/lb, or about 50ft/lb more than a 225hp 3116… that...

Yea the math does not work out. Did you try the switch settings for a cal number of 178? You saying 440 gives you good numbers compared to GPS really lets the smoke out of my nugget:) that calc number on the ametek chart is 1/2 of the frequency in hz @60MPH with a 16 pulse per rev driveshaft...

When you say “mine was 356”, was that what your original settings were, or thats what you calculated using their formula?

I don’t think you are going to find anyone who doesn’t see an overall improvement. Engine torque to vehicle thrust is a pretty well defined area of study, and the math and calculations well proven. All the math supports this as an improvement. If people were having decreases in performance...