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I made the switch mount and it works but I have to tuck the switch in tighter to the column. I think I can get another 1/8" - 3/16" clearance. This is only required on mine because I shortened the steering column 2", on a stock column it wouldn't be a problem. I ordered a newer style...

I'm not sure what you mean. I don't want to round off the rivets. I want maximum contact area and making them smaller reduces the contact area. I

In a previous post about the ignition switch I mentioned I might try to upgrade it for increased current capability (more AMPS). During my locking steering column modification I cut open the old Chinese key switch ignition and found the contact plate was burnt and melted. This was partially a...

I'll also add they have different connectors for the different systems so the current brake light switch wires will only fit the correct connectors on the new brake switch.

Not 100% sure but it seem to me the NO would be the brake lights ... then when you stepped on the brakes the lights would come on.

Ok, good luck. FYI, the ones I pointed out are made in USA and are a fraction of the prices of what you indicated. They are not a Hummer style "finished" door.

But it's more than that!! I found the thread to be educational on several levels.

Good catch, I was rushing to make a meeting and posted after a quick google search and missed the LED part. My mistake. I do see a specific listing difference in 28 vs 24 volt bulbs and a 10% margin so about 2.5-3v+-. Using a 24v in a 28v environment would likely reduce the life of the bulb...

Just an FYI, I'm not suggesting anyone here is wrong, right etc. The same can be said for the bulbs in question. All the listed bulbs and numbers are listed for both 24v AC/DC and 28v AC/DC

That is typical of charging systems. All my 12v cars run at 13.8-14.3 but I still buy 12v bulbs. I'd bet the difference in the 24v vs 28v bulbs is marketing. It's a 24v system that charges at roughly 28v. I'm sure either bulb would be fine.

Local auto parts store and ask for 1864 or 1820 bulb. The 1820 isn't as bright.

Hmm, my dash bulbs aren't backward polarity, Tip is Positive and the case is ground.

Any auto parts store should have them. Something like GE-1820 should work.

The original bulb is the same as the dash bulbs and does not have a polarity like a LED bulb. You can pull one out of your dash to test it.

Thanks!

Still waiting on rivets for the tailgate hinges but managed to paint the tailgate.

Once I get the directional mount bracket figured out and maybe a switch upgrade I might offer this service and see if anyone is interested in the conversion. I still have a stock steering column and parts on the way to work on that conversion. Do you think this is something people would like...

Today I mounted the ignition switch after painting it to match. I also wired it up and it works perfectly. I did take the ignition switch apart to example the construction of the contacts and assembly in general. At some point I will probably make a more heavy duty switch but for now i think...