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Mine is 30 years old and it scares me, never a drop under it so I'm always worried it's out of oil but it's not.

Here's the GPS I came across... https://www.nauticlaugic.com/NL2.html

Another thought, you could try putting 7vdc on the appropriate pins and seeing if the speedo goes through an initial check, usually the needle cycles. You can get 7.5 vdc with 5 AA batteries. If that works and you want to pursue trying to use that speedo then maybe consider buying the GPS and...

I have zero knowledge in MRAP anything but a couple things come to mind. That speedometer is generic in that the company that makes them also makes 100 other speedometers including Harleys, Fedex trucks, boats etc. A quick search on google turned up so interesting things. 1) that same speedo...

I don't need anything yet, let me see what I can come up with this weekend.

You posted images using links to your email account. No one but you can see them. I suggest you save the images to your computer and them use the "Attach Files" at the bottom of the post so everyone can see them.

Don't take it apart !!! Get me these dimensions. and be as accurate as possible.

Looks like a cast metal and depending on quality of the metal will determine if it can be reliably welded. How much time and machinery do you have? If I were in that situation I would machine a ring with a tab that went around the alternator and then screw it to the case. Not a simple or fast...

I was interested in changing out my old turn signal switch for a self canceling switch but in my case due to the shortened steering column. Since I bought a self canceling switch I mounted it to my stock length steering column to see if it would work with the Key ignition/steering column lock...

Just to be safe and hope no one makes one, it's a joke LOL

Today was a little slow so I built this handy battery carrier. I'm going to test it this weekend.

I removed my test rivet I did the other day because I needed the hinge to work with. Also it gave me a chance to see just how well the rivet worked. I tried to pound the rivet mandrel through with a hammer and punch and it would not move. I cut the top off and I was then able to remove it...

Since you say that, look at the AC wiring diagram hi/low switch and there is a 24v feed from the control box. However that's only for the blower motor circuit.

You might be able to by probing around in the battery box looking for a lose connection. Use a wood dowel or stick to probe around so you don't short anything out.

Here's the AC wiring, at the bottom it shows the battery box and has nothing else in common with the rest of the electrical system. That is what leads me to believe it is in the battery box.

From just the little research I've done since reading your post and no experience with your model at all, I think the AC connects in the battery box. Also if the alternator stops functioning it may be losing it's field voltage (not an expert on HMMWV alternators). It could be something in the...

There are different kinds i think, make sure the one you get looks like what you have on yours.

Yes you can replace just the brake side using the single switch. Look at pictures of both and you'll see they are just bolted together.

I did find a tach installation diagram and it looks like it taps the power off the positive feed to the fuel gauge. It also grounds to the gauge panel. When it goes off do you lose your fuel gauge? I'll guess that you do and assume it is similar to the earlier wiring diagrams and gets that...

Ground your meter to the battery ground and if you don't lose 24v to the tach power swap to check the ground. Put the positive meter lead on the battery +24 and put the neg meter lead on the ground at the tach. If you lose power that way, you have a ground issue.