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I might not be able to find one just like that and at that price but I will take a look and see and post back. My point was just suggesting you evaluate your end goals, cost, time etc. The one you posted pictures of is the most basic of basic models with little to no accessories, not even...

12K seems like an average price. For flipping, I don't think you'll make much if any. If you do anything to fix it up, you won't get your money back. If you buy just because you want one and plan to keep, drive and have fun with it, then you're ok. It really is a stripped down version with...

The adjustment is for the brake light switch. Adjust it until the brake lights come on with a light pressure to ensure your brake lights work when you hit the brakes.

Another option is to search google for "5-213x u-bolts". That Universal is a 5-213X so that will turn up some u-bolts that look just like the ones you received. It is likely the guy is selling a generic u-bolt. You can confirm the u-joint with some measurements if you don't have the number...

Looking in the couple TM's I have I found the part number you listed for both the front and rear (some models) drive shaft. I checked a different TM and found a part that matched "12339050" but had a different NSN 5306-01-502-3440 and it looks like the guy on epay you bought them from also has...

At that price it looks like those would be pretty easy to make yourself.

Update on months and months of upgrades, modifications and repairs. Since doing the 4L80 conversion, I drove it home and parked it to finish the odd and ends and continue with the overall build. Yesterday I finally dug it out of the garage. Today I basically went on its maiden voyage since...

Mine doesn't have dip switches and I am looking into an adapter/calibrator to see if I can fix it.

So I took it out today and the speedometer reads exactly half speed :cry: Which technically makes it 160mph speedometer now :ROFLMAO:

The Quick 4 is a good choice, it's simple and easy to install. When I did my 4L80 swap I used a 20amp dc to dc converter and it works fine, you don't need 100 amps. I wouldn't use 12v starter in a 24v (28v) system.

Here is the part number 5-S2-00080-MPH-24-BA-O-0 but a quick check doesn't show any on ebay. I do have another one that had a couple minor dents on the bezel that I fixed. The bezel would have to be painted either green or black. I don't think it has the terminal screws or the light. You...

There are a couple version of this speedometer. In the back you see dip switches that can adjust this one for compatibility. There is also one without dip switches and correct part number that should work with the OEM sending unit. I made a twisted pair signal cable and ran it from the...

A 4L80/85 will default to 2nd gear. It isn't so much a limp mode as a default. I found this out when doing my 4L80 swap and talking to the TCM controller tech support to make sure I was setting it up correctly. It displayed 2nd upon power up and that didn't seem right to me so I called...

Mine don't work that way. Did you adjust the striker out? Is it front or rear? The strikers are different and have different offsets. Make sure you have the correct ones in the correct places. Also make sure they aren't on backwards and are offset in the correct direction. BTW, I'm...

I've seen many different door locks for our HMMWV's and have thought about a kit myself. With the recent thread about them it got me thinking about how people use them, like them, would like them to work, etc.

Not all 4L80's are created equal. There are early and late models and there were running updates. At some point they added a bolt hole for LS engines. Then the 4L85 is an upgrade planetary but still a bolt in for a 4L80. When I was looking for one for my HMMWV I found the 2000ish and up were...

The caliper compression tool is cheap, here's an example https://www.ebay.com/itm/203534090699 If I have use new chinese crap rotors the first thing I do it turn them and make them flat and parallel. Based on past experience I avoid them at all COSTS.

Edit: Actually on second look the piston side pad looks about half gone. I'd just replace the pads of the rotor surfaces are smooth with no significant grooves. Put the brake anti-squeal on the back of all the pads and let dry before installing.

Short of a full brake rotor inspection and disassembly that lip doesn't look like a problem. Most brake rotors wear the same way because the pads don't overhang the rotor and wear the rotor only where they touch. Turning the rotor just insures the rotors are flat and the sides are parallel to...

Did you buy that one on epay? I checked and I don't have a large enough piece of stock to make a tab. The tab would go around most of the outside diameter of the alternator and would be bolted on. The tab on the opposite side prevents going completely around. If you need me to make it, I...